Off Season Project - Engine Rebuild S1000RR

[Linden]

Not coating the pistons - teflon and ceramic coated pistons ???

[Turbo]

Not coating the pistons - teflon and ceramic coated pistons ???

Never considered it to be honest, Linden. Have you tried? Is it easy?

[Linden]

Yes did it on my 620 (couple of years ago) must pop the top and have a look (it has done over 70,000km road since it was done) and this was an air cooled engine - from memory was meant to make engine cooler (my air cooled show +150C at EC in summer) and also add a bit of compression (we were shaving heads etc)

As for easy ... yes sent them off (well Gowanlochs did) and then they came back minus some of my money :(

I guess the effectiveness is up to the person talking ... I can't say if it helped my engine as we did so much but it was a great little motor at the time

[Turbo]

Yes did it on my 620 (couple of years ago) must pop the top and have a look (it has done over 70,000km road since it was done) and this was an air cooled engine - from memory was meant to make engine cooler (my air cooled show +150C at EC in summer) and also add a bit of compression (we were shaving heads etc)

As for easy ... yes sent them off (well Gowanlochs did) and then they came back minus some of my money :(

I guess the effectiveness is up to the person talking ... I can't say if it helped my engine as we did so much but it was a great little motor at the time

Ok, interesting. I'd be interested to know how easy it'd be to do oneself and perhaps consider for next time.
This one is just a bit of a refresh, as it's running really well in all other respects.

[Linden]

Ok, interesting. I'd be interested to know how easy it'd be to do oneself and perhaps consider for next time.
This one is just a bit of a refresh, as it's running really well in all other respects.

Bunch of YouTube vids for what they are worth

[Turbo]

After flipping the motor upside down again, I set to work cleaning out the gearbox housing.



Big thanks to Stevem who was able to hook me up with a whole bunch of gearbox spares. I put together the best parts I had, with nice clean and square dogs that will make my gear changes much more solid!





The race engine service interval for an S1000RR, mentions checking and even replacing the shift star pretty regularly.
After looking into it a bit further, it seems BMW recognised it as a week point and subsequently, completely revised the part.
Mine didn't really need changing but with such a physical difference in the part, I thought it'd be a good idea to get the new model fitted up.




Here it is fitted, together with the heavyweight shift detent spring.



So, having decided not to work with the old crank shaft I was lucky enough to be able to track down one that was the exact same spec as mine, in excellent condition.
Rather than doing squish tests, BMW code their bearings and cranks with colours so you know which conrods and bearings go with which cranks.
That being said, as the tolerances are very fine, the only bearings that are really used with race bikes anyway, are the thinnest ones available.
This allows more oil flow and keeps them as cool as possible, without the risk of knock.

Happily my main bearings were all in really excellent condition so there was no need to replace them.
A new set of conrod bearings was certainly required tho!




Top of the pic is my old crank and bottom pic is the new one, before cleaning the packaging fluff off it. The red/green dots are the markers, although the heat in my old crank has discoloured all the red dots.



A thorough clean up of the new crank and a bit of an oil and I can seat it on the main bearings.

Before doing that tho, I had to split the new conrods and install their bearings. The trick to seating these is a dry back side and a bit of engine oil for lube, once it's seated.
Some people use assembly lube, but I only use that in the top end.



Finally time to seat the new crank. Again, plenty of engine oil all over for lube, taking care not to get it in the conrod bolt threads or sealing face of the crank case..





The final step for now is the critical pre-stretch and torque procedure for the conrod bolts. The oem conrod bolts are well know to be poor, and a recall was even done to a whole batch of 2012s.
Some of which had their bolts come loose and throw rods!!
ARP are well know to be the goods for racing hardware so it was an easy choice to install these; following the cleaning, pre-stretch, torque and loctite procedure, to the letter.