There's a trick using the rear brake that Bernie teaches at his school..
its queer foot positioning but I have grown used to it just by practice..
that said, I'm not that quick so you're better off waiting for the next sensible post
After my last day at Bernie's Gilesy mentioned that I was too on/off on the brakes and needed to start trailing into the corners if I wanted to go faster.
Also said that I should learn to apply rear brake to help bring the rear around (kept running wide at the fish hook).
not too keen on using the rear foot operated brake, does anyone run a thumb brake?
I have been reading up on alot of DIY set-ups that stunters use (basically grab a front of a 250 or similar and flip it).
Also in regards to TD legality will it pass scrutineering?
Cheers,
Andrew
There's a trick using the rear brake that Bernie teaches at his school..
its queer foot positioning but I have grown used to it just by practice..
that said, I'm not that quick so you're better off waiting for the next sensible post
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So I looked in the GCRs
and there was no specific mention of a foot operated rear brake being needed.
15.1.2 Brakes
15.1.2.1 At least 2 efficient brakes must operate
independently of each other on the front
and rear wheels.
15.1.2.2 Front brake caliper mounting bolts to be
lockwired in the tightened position
I might give building a thumb brake a go, at worst I can always change it back
Last edited by Negrogrande; 20-08-2013 at 02:32 PM.
Muzz has one on his SP1.. he rigged a hose to the rear master and has both foot and hand (left) operation.... he only drags the rear with the hand lever so it is quite effective..
I just use the rear brake pedal...I was somewhat fortunate to have ground down my stock brake lever in a minor wet weather spill which meant that the quirky foot position Chubb's referring to is pretty comfortable with the narrower pedal (foot rolls to outside of pedal and doesnt take any major readjustment).
I tend to use it mid turn and sometimes coming out of tight turns like T8 at wacky or T2 at EC to minimise the risk of spin up/ high side..Allows a little more throttle which in turn will also keep the front down ....
but as per Chubb...Im not really fast enough to need it, just try to practice it to get it down pat..
Life's too Short- YOLO!
The edge of your toe is dragging on the rear brake. You have to roll your ankle a little.
I use it to tighten up my lines on exit and helps on corners that fall away from you i.e. turn 4 EC, crash corner at Broady since Bernie teaches us to keep on the throttle going downhill as it keeps the weight off the front end and not fold the front.
I drag the rear brake going into most corners. Just very used to it ever since I went to Bernies school in 11.
When my brake lever broke at wakefield park when I gone down on Nelso's oil spill, I felt very uncomfortable without my rear brake. I just use the stock r6 rear brake and go through them as much as I do the front!
Still got plenty more to learn. It's been a very exciting journey first year on the 600 so far.. looking forward to learning as much as I can from all you guys
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They also have a shimik traction control and an amazing amount of talent on their right hand. So maybe they don't need the rear brake as much as the rest of us.
so my DIY thumb brake is coming along, however it appear the LH switchblock is going to have to go...
what do I do with all the wires in there? I took it off (to have a look) and there is shitloads of gear in there.
Will post pics tomorrow night
There's nothing important in there (although on suzukis you need to bridge the clutch wires to get it to start!). But remember it will then start without the clutch in, and possibly in gear....
Oh, and:
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Clutch dealie isn't connected to the Switchblock, it sits on it's own (have reconnected the switch after discovering not having it puts the bike in safe mode) I will post photos when I get to the bike tonight.
does the switchblock wires go back to a plug on the wiring loom, if so couldnt you just unplug it .?
Will investigate that on Wednesday, will check if the clutch switch is on the same plug.
Thanks for the help guys, have no problem getting my hands dirty with mechanical stuff, but I am terrified of messing with anything electrical
It should be separate (I'm pretty sure, but that's from memory). The clutch switch is a separate smaller plug, with nothing else attached to it.
You should be the opposite!! Generally electrics are much simpler - they simply work or they don't! Mechanical stuff has plenty of grey area - it works, but sub-optimally, or it works for a while until the whole motor lets go in a loud, expensive bang because you didn't put it back together right.
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update, LH switchblock is goneski's
using Dan's link http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=250801
I went on the path of removing the switch block.
first up I made up a ground terminal for the relay
then I spliced lines into the clutch switch and starter
then I tucked it away under the subframe using a convenient tapped thread for the pillion seat catch
and finally after unbolting the radiator mounts to get to the switch
success
still waiting on my rear brake line from GP tech so I can make my thumb brake, will post photos once I start
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+1. Enquiring minds want to know....!
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I think he is referring to me. I think marshy would be keen to know as well.
The junction valve and rear line have landed, trying to find a small enough M/C that I can flip on the left bar.
failing that I will ring around and see if I can get a cheap fork clamp made up
Like this one
thumb brake.JPG
$450 for $8 worth of aluminium seems excessive to me
What happened to this idea?
2011 ZX10R track/race bike
ZRX1200 road bike
Period 6 ZXR 750 race bike
P6 250 production RMX250 motard race bike
2015 YZ450F Dirt track/motard
TE511 trail bike/motard
I know Mstevo fitted his thumb brake Nelso.
2007 Yamaha FZ1 Championship winner (2012) (the tank)
2007 Yamaha FZ1 Road bike
2005 KTM 450 EXC (fun bike)
2005 Yamaha R1 Class winner 2014
An alternative to thumb brake, Danny Sailer aka Ripperton Electric bike bloke had fitted a throttle brake on the left clip on his old CBR1000RR. He said It worked for him. Remember either Doohan on Gardener used a thumb lever back in the day when the 500GP oil burners tried to throw their riders overboard prior to traction control and electronics goodies. Troy Bayliss did OK without using rear brake winning one MotoGP race plus a couple of Superbike titles.
What did you go for in the end Mark.
I got mine all sorted and bled properly now with good pressure on both the foot and thumb levers. That took a bit of thinking to get it bled right.
I have a brand new HEL long line that i never ended up using that will allow you to run a thumb direct to the rear caliper if you're still looking.
The same set up as you (http://www.sesraceproducts.com/lever...rakes-34-c.asp) except I went straight to the rear caliper with a 1.5m braided line for an ATV off Ebay from Melbourne for $27 ;-)
2007 Yamaha FZ1 Championship winner (2012) (the tank)
2007 Yamaha FZ1 Road bike
2005 KTM 450 EXC (fun bike)
2005 Yamaha R1 Class winner 2014
how about the Brembo version??? http://www.hsmotoracing.com/race-par...left-hand.html so EXXY!!!!!!
also who said they wanted a rear thumb brake???? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thumb-Brak...item3ce29d8154 bargain of the year, its the SES one as well so it should be $400 ish.
Last edited by Carl-52; 13-06-2014 at 03:54 PM.
That is cheap... but posting to UK only may be a bit of an issue for some.
I'm sure Carl has a secret posting courier he uses from his hometown
I looked at that Brembo setup. It purely drips $$$$ doesn't it.
If anyone wants one of these i would suggest getting onto UK dude immediately about postage and checking the diameter of the tube clamp while you're at it.
This thing is awesome. I'll post up soon the difficulties i faced installing mine
its for a gsxr1000 k7/8 ad the upper fork diameter under the top triple is 50mm same as an r6
2007 Yamaha FZ1 Championship winner (2012) (the tank)
2007 Yamaha FZ1 Road bike
2005 KTM 450 EXC (fun bike)
2005 Yamaha R1 Class winner 2014
id certainly like to try one for fun otherwise even just getting a quick look so i can dimension it up and then make my own, then find a MC and its all good
This is kind of why i went for the dual setup Mark. My thinking is to continue using the footbrake as i'm used to for quick braking and then use the thumb brake for mid corner settling so i'm adding a skill slowly rather than changing what i know.
When i first bled it out the thumb brake was rock hard. In the end i added a new Banjo at the top M/C that has a bleed nipple in it but didn't bleed it again to take some of the pressure out of the top line and therefore the thumb brake.
The way the junction valve seems to work is it separates the pressure zones between the top and rear line so you can get some different pressure between the two.
I tested it out on the dyno this week and it felt pretty good as far as the amount of pressure between the two different levers and what i intend to use them for.
The Brembo Master Cylinders are quite cheap for this setup and easy to buy as well Carl. About $40 i believe from a number of sites. Demon Tweeks and SESraceproducts are two of them.
i do i do!!! just when your lent over with your uber long knees scraping the ground and the tank its hard to keep my foot near the brake, i have to rotate it outward or when i need the stabilisers out it would be fun to be able to thumb brake the rear
Last edited by Mstevo; 14-06-2014 at 10:18 AM.
2007 Yamaha FZ1 Championship winner (2012) (the tank)
2007 Yamaha FZ1 Road bike
2005 KTM 450 EXC (fun bike)
2005 Yamaha R1 Class winner 2014
probably nelso, probably, i can ask a few mates and they will most likely be happy to send it out
looks like itll sky rocket in price tho with people bidding on it
just found this http://www.hardracing.com/GP%20Tech/Thumbrake.htm
whish I had found that before I bought the junction valve and brake line.
will have to be for the next bike the Suzi is cursed
Hi Guys
Ive got a Brembo GP thumb brake but my setup is a little different in that ive got the GP Foot brake MC too and a pressure sensor for the APX. Seems I need a junction but most ive seen rely on a different MC for use.
Any thoughts on how/if I can get my foot setup t work with the Brembo GP Thumb?
Some pics
Foot GP MC
20161215_192951.jpg
Thumb
16708743_10211501517230247_2169757324015548953_n.jpg
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