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Thread: Replace OEM LHS TC/ABS switch BMW S1000RR

  1. #1

    Replace OEM LHS TC/ABS switch BMW S1000RR

    I'm on my second OEM switch block on a 2010 and it's gone again. Can't justify the expense of the aftermarket alpha/stm switchs etc.

    So I thought that given the constant OEM failures and high cost of prewired aftermarket solutions that it might be of interest to any race/track bike owners not requiring the other switches (blinker, headlights, horn etc) or even if you want to remove the switch for safe keeping in case of a crash at the track. Or if like happened to me at a race meeting, you're at the track and your switch fails and you want to be able to switch TC/ABS on/off and nobody has a spare.

    I've stationary tested it and works fine. No warning lights or faults. I won't get a chance to double check everything and ride the bike for another month or so.

    The below photos show the plug and the pins within the plug that operate the TC/ABS button.







    The wires if you wish to splice into them are brown/blue & brown/black.



    The end result is this complicated piece is removed and goes:




    To this - single round black momentary switch allows switching of the Traction Control and ABS if you have it connected.

    Pre Modern Formula 1 Champion 2013 (GSXR750T)

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  2. #2
    Awesome work

  3. #3
    Hi Rick, So the two wires you joined together do traction and ABS ? Do you have your abs on the bike or is it removed ? My ABS pump has been removed, just wondering if that would trigger a fault code or something silly. Nice work man, get rid of all that crap on the left bar. Cheers

  4. #4
    Admin Turbo's Avatar
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    Very tidy! Nice work, Rick.
    Skywalker - 2017 BMW S1000RR FOZ/Unlimited/Bears Race Bike #62
    Red Baron - 2013 BMW S1000RR FOZ/Unlimited/Bears Race Bike #62

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by stevem View Post
    Hi Rick, So the two wires you joined together do traction and ABS ? Do you have your abs on the bike or is it removed ? My ABS pump has been removed, just wondering if that would trigger a fault code or something silly. Nice work man, get rid of all that crap on the left bar. Cheers
    Hey Steve,
    I just used the wire in the photo to show which pins. It's normally open circuit and you just need a momentary switch to close it (same as OEM)
    My ABS is also removed. There are no codes coming up and as far as I can tell from the original switch block it is just a switch, albeit a complicated one.
    I can't be 100% sure until I can ride it and the bike goes through the TC self test. I'd ride it up the road if I didn't live opposite a highway patrolman.
    It's a good way to go to get rid of those vulnerable plastics even just to take the oem switch off for safe keeping
    Pre Modern Formula 1 Champion 2013 (GSXR750T)

    www.wet4uracing.com.au Race bike & mechanical prep, fairings and parts - www.bikeshop.com.au (Protech Motorcycles)Tyres, parts and dyno tuning www.stayupright.com.au motorcycle rider training from learners through to track skills - http://worthingtonmotorcycles.com.au BMW, Honda, MV Augusta, Moto Guzzi and Aprilia

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Negrogrande View Post
    Awesome work
    Quote Originally Posted by Sicko View Post
    Very tidy! Nice work, Rick.
    Cheers
    Pre Modern Formula 1 Champion 2013 (GSXR750T)

    www.wet4uracing.com.au Race bike & mechanical prep, fairings and parts - www.bikeshop.com.au (Protech Motorcycles)Tyres, parts and dyno tuning www.stayupright.com.au motorcycle rider training from learners through to track skills - http://worthingtonmotorcycles.com.au BMW, Honda, MV Augusta, Moto Guzzi and Aprilia

  7. #7
    Moderator BoB's Avatar
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    Rick , the bit you removed with the blue buttons looks like something that controls the tardis ..
    Cbr 600rr 07 track

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by BoB View Post
    Rick , the bit you removed with the blue buttons looks like something that controls the tardis ..
    Agreed!!!
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