Being Euro 6 compliant, means that even the breather hoses can't just vent out to the belly pan. The bike has a charcoal fuel filter system which is supposed to filter out any impurities, in line before venting.
The reality is that you get backwash of charcoal particles in your fuel system, which can stuff up your fuel pump, and the filtering doesn't even do what it's intended to do.
It's extra weight too so time to pull it out!

It doesn't photograph well in situ, so here's the void left behind the radiator, where the charcoal canister used to sit. As mentioned, it goes in line with the fuel breather hoses.



The removed charcoal canister itself...



Round the other side of the throttle bodies is a solenoid valve that pumps unused vapours back round to the canister, before being allowed to vent.



No need for that either, so out it comes...



The spider looking part is the summing valve of all four throttle body breather hoses. It's very light, so the easiest thing, for the system removal, is to plug it's outlet hose with a glued bolt, and re-attach the inlet hoses, back to the bike.



Next on the list, whilst I'm in here is the secondary air system removal.
Here is the pair valve, sitting in front of the plugs....



Unbolt it from the cam cover then follow the air hose to the air box and remove that too.





Then swap out the O-rings from the oem pair valve and fit up some new block off plates and and air box plug...







Next on the list for replacement is the heavy oem battery, to be replaced with a shiny new Lithium battery...



I won't be running the big heavy ABS system either, so out it comes...



I'll need to remove the ABS & DTC controller from the plunger system. The controller is on the CAN Bus so it needs to go back in, for the rear wheel speed sensor data to get back to the ECU.
You can buy expensive replacement controller without the plunger unit, but as any associated error codes will be flashed out of my ECU, there is a way to re-do yourself.

First separate the plunger unit from the DTC controller





Then trim down the two prongs, delivering power to the plunger unit...



Seal the controller back up with good quality waterproof tape...



Then re-install back to the bike...



Next disconnect all the brake lines from the ABS module and rip out all the internal hoses... Job done!



Last thing for now is removing the knock sensors... I'm after a fixed timing for best performance with my ECU map to 98 RON fuel. That means the ignition timing "healing", that the oem ECU can do, is not required and in fact is not desirable at all.
The function will be flashed out of the ECU so no need for the sensors...