Shift Arm R6 - Bolt head sheared off

[Phat3R]

Any advice on how to remove the shift arm if you manage to shear the bolt head clean off trying to undo it?

[chubb]

Either file both sides flat so you can get a spanner on there or drill through the bolt enough for a small Allen key to go through and start twisting.

This is just an home improvement method.

[Mstevo]

I'd imagine access to do anything will be a pain,

[Phat3R]

F#$*, F#$*, F#$* ...

I tried splitting it open with a large screwdriver, it won't open enough to pull off the spline. I tried drilling the bolt, and drilling / using a screw extractor, but it's a bitch to get in as the bolt head was at the bottom. I was so pissed off with myself it was best I stopped.

I'll try gently hack sawing through the bolt and trying to prise it off. Better put in my order for a new one today, perhaps I should get a new spline too.


901

[Saturnalian]

WD40 Rick. Spray it good into the spline shaft and let it sit for half an hour. Then get a lever behind it and hinge it on a rag against the sprocket cover and tap it off from behind. Do you have a Dremel ? Just cut through the bolt gently to free up the grip. I have another shift arm for you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Phat3R]

Jamie that is brilliant! Yes I have a dremel, perfect tool to attack this with! I never thought about using a lever to tap it out ... damn clever.

[Marshy]

Just fyi in general, this commonly happens when ppl screw the bolt in from the wrong side (and if I sound like I'm speaking from experience, you can get f$#ked ;) ). There's only thread on ONE side of the hole, and if you try and tighten it up when you've put the bolt in the wrong end, this happens.

[Mstevo]

Dremel was my other suggestion, but I see smarter people have beat me to it ;-)

[Saturnalian]

Dremel was my other suggestion, but I see smarter people have beat me to it ;-)

Its the only time i'll ever be faster than you Stevo

[Phat3R]

Just fyi in general, this commonly happens when ppl screw the bolt in from the wrong side (and if I sound like I'm speaking from experience, you can get f$#ked ;) ). There's only thread on ONE side of the hole, and if you try and tighten it up when you've put the bolt in the wrong end, this happens.

Guilty ... it was the right way around when I went to undo it, but that bolt may have had a difficult life when I swapped it back from race shift. I'm such a wrenching Klutz!

[James_]

.... when I swapped it back from race shift....

Why would you do this????

[Phat3R]

Why would you do this????

James with that Quickshifter, I found I didn't need it, such a light touch to shift, it's like driving an automatic. If I didn't have the QS, I would go through the pain because it would make a big difference. It really is an unfair advantage worth acquiring. ;)

[James_]

Fair enough. I am a total race shift convert though. The hire bike i used recently had road. Every time I changed gear I had that confusing mental process "up is for up...wait, yeah.. up is up"

LOVED my QS... for the three days I got to use it.

[Phat3R]

Yeah that's why I want to stay with road ... it's all in muscle memory and I don't need to think anymore. I forgot you finally succumbed to a UA / QS ... But you had been using race shift for a while with the "manual box"?

[Turbo]

I am a total race shift convert though.
Same! I swapped over my road bike first, hoping to make all my "GP moments" on the street...
Was caught out a couple of times coming in to 6 but it's second nature now. Road shift is confusing!

And yeah, QS is an amazing UA!!

[Nelso]

WD40 Rick. Spray it good into the spline shaft and let it sit for half an hour.

I find Penetrene works even better than WD40.

[Phat3R]

It wouldn't pull out with leverage, I eventually worked out the bolt's thread actually connects with the splines, so it's very tricky to cut the bolt without damaging the splines. I ended up using the dremel to cut into the aluminum gear arm so that I could remove 1/4 of the outward facing metal of the arm and then the bolt just fell out. Arm was farked ($75 for a new one), but everything else OK. I now know the inner details of the gear arm, and how it works, only another 1,000,000 pieces of the bike to go! :)

[James_]

Yeah that's why I want to stay with road ... it's all in muscle memory and I don't need to think anymore. I forgot you finally succumbed to a UA / QS ... But you had been using race shift for a while with the "manual box"?

yeah, had the gp shift on the cbr from the get go.

Glad to hear you got the bolt out!

A handy product for tricky bolts is Frost-Off....freezes the bolt a little to shrink it. Wouldn't work on an aluminum part though i dont think.

[Saturnalian]

It wouldn't pull out with leverage, I eventually worked out the bolt's thread actually connects with the splines, so it's very tricky to cut the bolt without damaging the splines. I ended up using the dremel to cut into the aluminum gear arm so that I could remove 1/4 of the outward facing metal of the arm and then the bolt just fell out. Arm was farked ($75 for a new one), but everything else OK. I now know the inner details of the gear arm, and how it works, only another 1,000,000 pieces of the bike to go! :)

Next time......I know , there won't be a next time........ but next time, use the dremel to go almost through the bolt but not all the way and then slide a flat blade screw driver into the gap and give it a quick firm twist. It'll snap the last bit of the thread for you and free it up.
BTW, i finally found the arm the other night when i was cleaning up bits to sell the roadie