Brake Bleeding

[Mouse]

Hi Guys,

Just had some braided lines arrive and I've never bled brakes before but I've watched bulk youtube on this and they all seem to use varying levels/quality of brake bleed kits.

What does everyone on here use? Had a look on eBay and there is heaps to choose from, some are probably junk. Any good ones?

Also, how often should the brakes be bled? I change engine oil every 3-5 track days depending on how long the sessions are etc, but what are the "servicing intervals" on brakes.

Cheers!

[Tristan]

I'm no expert but I do it as soon as it's starts to Change colour which seams to be every 5-6 track days.


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[Turbo]

Personally, I don't use a kit...
Road service intervals are anything up to about 2 years…. It's a hydroscopic fluid so when the fluid absorbs moisture, you'll notice the brakes start to feel a little squishy (time to change!).
You'll need to make sure your new fluid is compatible with whatever is left in your master cylinder. Silicone and none-silicone based brake fluid DO NOT mix.
Essentially, the higher Dot level, the higher the liquid boil temp. - Which is useful as the fluid gets hot on track under compression.

As I said, I don't find a bleed kit is really essential, a bit of hose (6mm or so) from Bunnings will do the trick. Attach it to one then the other bleed nipple on the calipers, open the master cylinder then pump the brake lever until it's all out.
Be very careful not to get it on your skin or fairings as it can do quite a lot of damage.
If you're simply changing fluid, not lines, ideally get different coloured fluid and add in to the master cylinder as you pump through. That way, you can see when you're done and not introduce any air.

Once the new lines are on, you need to expel all air from the system so it's just a case of adding liquid to the master cylinder and squeezing to pump the fluid through, pushing all air through out of both calipers.

Just the way I do it, but it seems to work!

[Mouse]

Personally, I don't use a kit...
Road service intervals are anything up to about 2 years…. It's a hydroscopic fluid so when the fluid absorbs moisture, you'll notice the brakes start to feel a little squishy (time to change!).
You'll need to make sure your new fluid is compatible with whatever is left in your master cylinder. Silicone and none-silicone based brake fluid DO NOT mix.
Essentially, the higher Dot level, the higher the liquid boil temp. - Which is useful as the fluid gets hot on track under compression.

As I said, I don't find a bleed kit is really essential, a bit of hose (6mm or so) from Bunnings will do the trick. Attach it to one then the other bleed nipple on the calipers, open the master cylinder then pump the brake lever until it's all out.
Be very careful not to get it on your skin or fairings as it can do quite a lot of damage.
If you're simply changing fluid, not lines, ideally get different coloured fluid and add in to the master cylinder as you pump through. That way, you can see when you're done and not introduce any air.

Once the new lines are on, you need to expel all air from the system so it's just a case of adding liquid to the master cylinder and squeezing to pump the fluid through, pushing all air through out of both calipers.

Just the way I do it, but it seems to work!

Awesome mate! Thanks for that. Will just grab some hose tomorrow!

[Mr.Ed]

I usually use Little Mick, highly recommend!!! :fish2:

[Mouse]

I usually use Little Mick, highly recommend!!! :fish2:

Hahaha, gotta get me a mate like that!

[Little Mick]

I usually use Little Mick, highly recommend!!! :fish2:


hahahaaa...funny you should post that.... I did 2 YZ125's and my daughters 150 4/ today :)

patience when doing it... and then be a little more patient... It took me almost an hour to sort out the rear on my zx6r, but then was awesome!

[Nelso]

I use a very expensive piece of equipment called a 'plastic bottle and plastic tube'. You can pick the tube up at any hardware store, but the bottle requires you to consume whatever liquid is being stored in it when you buy it. After draining the bottle, drill a hole in the lid, put the hose through and the other end on the bleed nipple, put some water in the bottom, squeeze the bottle and put the lid back on so that it creates a bit of a vacuum to suck the fluid through the hose.:thumb:

I am planning on getting a fancy check valve brake bleeder one day, but until then, this method works fine.

[Mouse]

Thanks guys, let you know how I go!!

[shippy__]

I am planning on getting a fancy check valve brake bleeder one day, but until then, this method works fine.

I got one from supershit on boxing day ...... shiiiiit hoooouse I ended up using it hose and 8mm spanner style

[Negrogrande]

I have a vacuum bleeder, it was $70 off from local auto store, it is the tits!

they also use them for engine pressure testing or something, not quite sure I just use the brake bleeding side.

looks like this 460

[Mr.Ed]

Jeeboos... I might just have to call you next. Sorry Mick hahaha

[Tristan]

I have a motion pro one with the check valve in it but it's rubbish.


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[Marshy]

I have a vacuum bleeder, it was $70 off from local auto store, it is the tits!

they also use them for engine pressure testing or something, not quite sure I just use the brake bleeding side.

looks like this 460


I have a motion pro one with the check valve in it but it's rubbish.


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I have both of those, and they are both rubbish. The Motion Pro leaks everywhere (only tried it once as a result), and the vacuum pump just doesn't generate much vacuum!! Whilst mine looks very similar to that photo (the case, containers, tubes, adapters etc), the actual pump is clearly muuuuch cheaper on mine and it's rubbish. Pisses me off. I bleed a lot of brakes, and end up just doing it the slow, old fashioned way.

[shippy__]

In the past I have used a big syringe and pushed it up through the line and sucked out of the reservoir when full, worked pretty well although I don't do it unless i am having problems as I am not sure if it hurts any seals


although when changing pads I guess that's exactly what pushing the caliper pistons back does

[chubb]

Nothing like just the old fashioned reliable way

[Negrogrande]

vacuum pump FTW it will change your life.

you can get ones you put on a compressor as well, wouldn't do a bike with it, but for a car they are genius

[phillmac]

Used to just do the bikes by hand cause it's easy but after using the air boy compressor one on the cars single handed I now do everything with it. Never spilt a drop. Don't even empty it any more, containers sealed and about 6mm thick. Cost about $200 though years back.

[BoB]

I was having trouble at the track with the brakes once when someone came and gave me a hand with a manual vacuum extraction pump (think it was danga on rats). I was so impressed how easy it was I went out and bought one. They come in a couple of sizes but the one I have is about 12inch tall so not too big to take to the track. One of the nice features is that it collects the fluid in the base and has a nice easy pour spout to empty it . Can be used to empty engine oil out , if you overfill it or brake fluid out of the reservoir when you need to push the pads back. Here is one thats cheap on ebay but need to ship it .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moeller-Fluid-Extractor-/191032809632?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item2c7a7158a0&vxp=mtr

[Marshy]

Me wantee!! Let's not all bid on the same one but.

[BoB]

Just checked the vac fluid extractor model I have is a bikemaster 2.7 litre model tr-151892. It comes with a selection of tube diameters but from memory I used a bit of silicon hose I had to fit on the brake nipples
.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bikemaster-Oil-Fluid-Extractor-Cj-125-27L-Bm-/331103471447?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d174e0757&vxp=mtr

Here is the 2.7 ltr one

[BoB]

Me wantee!! Let's not all bid on the same one but.
Nick this one looks the same as danga had at the track , a 5 litre one. It will workjust as good but found to cart to the track then a 2.7 litre one would be better. Although if youget it cheap enough who cares..

[phillmac]

You blokes must take a lot of shit to the track. About all I'v ever done was the odd chain lube and lent my emergency tools to other blokes. Still seem to take too much crap.