My ZX6R build - The Kangasaki

[KANGA]

Hey guys so heres my build thread. Converting my road ZX6R to a tracky.

So got a cheap set of fairings which took me and embarrassingly long time to fit. When we first put them on my first thought there was no way I will be able to put them on by my self but after leaving them on the bike for a while they seem to have bent in to shape and a lot easier to get on and off again. Just gotta paint em now.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/IMG_0956.JPG

I've got some front and rear sprockets on the way (-1/+2) and a new chain. Was planning on using the old but after Marty suggested I check it first it definitely had way to much movement. Especially sideways.

Also have some Vesrah SRJL-XX front brake pads coming, heard they are the sh*t so decided to give em a go. I've read you don't have to bed them in but you do need to prep your rotors, anyone able to confirm/disagree with that?

Also ordered a dan moto link pipe since the fairings don't fit with the prechamber. Turns out my scorpion muffler is designed to work with out the stock gasket so its to big for the dan moto link pipe. Managed to source a second hand pinebox link pipe which from the dimensions the guy gave me should work out. Hopefully turn up in a week or two.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/IMG_0954.JPG
Looking at what to do with the rear brake reservoir, could potentially try zip tying it to the exhaust hanger but Cliffy gave me the suggestion of setting up one of the HRC tube reservoirs which is what I'm leaning to at this point.
Whats everyone's recommendation for brake fluid, is it worth forking out for race spec stuff? Going to flush out both at this point.

[Marshy]

Nice mate; thanks for posting. Fairings definitely mould to the bike after a couple of heat cycles, so ones that can be a pain to fit initially actually end up fitting perfectly.

Vesrah SRJL are the bomb! I've been using them for a couple of years now, and they are a required fitment for any new bike. They require no bedding in whatsoever. It's advisable to give the discs a light sand (both sides ;) ) before using them, but the necessity of that really depends a lot on which pads you had in immediately before. I've sanded and not sanded, and never noticed a difference, but certain types of pad material can be quite different to the Vesrahs, and brakig will definitely benefit from getting the non-compatible residue off the disc. This applies to most new pads, by the way; if the previous ones were from a different 'family' (ie of a different type) you need to sand. But most pads are basically sintered metal, and are compatible. If you had organic pads in for some reason, you'd definitely need to prep the discs!

The HRC-type tube is the way to go on the ZX6R. The standard hose isn't long enough for rearsets, and the HRC plugs are available from any honda dealer for $4.50 ish, I think. Tygon tubing is readily available too, although I usually get mine overseas.

Good brake fluid is very important in the front, and mostly unimportant in the rear. The race stuff is great, but bear in mind that unlike road-based fluid, you do need to change it every few months for optimum performance. Motul is the worst in this regard, in my experience. I've been running Silkolene race fluid for the last 6 months, and it is lasting a lot longer before going off. But if you don't absolutely punish your brakes (and a lot of riders don't), then any good quality fresh fluid is better than old, expensive race fluid.

[Mr.Ed]

I'll make this quick:
-Go with HRC thingy (I have);
-I had the SRJLs on the R6 and didn't do any prepping of the rotors... they performed awesome but then again maybe they could have been even better
-Call whoever you got the sprockets from and ask to go with -1/+1 instead. I have -1/+2 on mine and I can guarantee you it's too short for EC (maybe good for the Sth Circuit) as you hit the limiter on the straight unless you're running a 200 rear.
-Brake fluid, if it's for the front brakes, Castrol SRF. Costly and hard to find but it is better. I wouldn't worry about running anything that expensive on the rear.

[Little Mick]

+1 on HRC thingy.. run 14:44 amd 15:44 gearing. Stock Chain length works fine.

I run silkolene race fluid front and rear. peace of mind and dont change the rear very often so cost isnt as bad.

I havent tried the fluid Ed mentioned but it comes highly recommended also.

[chubb]

Nothing wrong with running unpainted fairings...

Mine still needs to be hit with a coat of paint

[Little Mick]

Nothing wrong with running unpainted fairings...

Mine still needs to be hit with a coat of paint

nothing wrong with being a slacker either Chubb :boink: paint your fairings....:fish2:

[Negrogrande]

I run ATE blue fluid (http://www.autosphere.com.au/p/6981159/ate-super-blue-racing-brake-fluid.html) (it looks cool & offers good performance & makes bleeding out old fluid a piece of piss)

the bestest is castrol SRF (http://www.autosphere.com.au/p/8709706/castrol-srf-racing-brake-fluid.html) I can't justify dropping that much coin on brake fluid though, I'm not nearly quick enough to warrant it

[KANGA]

Unfortunately sprockets are already in the air somewhere between here and the states :S
HRC tube set up it is!
I had EBC-HH pads before which are sintered I believe. I'm still yellow group so unless I'm trying to save a screw up I'm not punishing the brakes still very much learning.
Chubb at this point I'd say the paint is more to cover up all spots where the fiber glass has been repaired from drill holes which didn't quite work out hahaha
Thanks for all the input guys! I'll keep updating with my progress

[chubb]

Bit of glass and body filler won't go astray!

how much will changing brake fluid make?? I just use standard shell one.

Brake pads?? don't need the best.. been using oem R6 ones

However I did try the ferodo xracs

[CLIFFY]

Castrol SRF and stock pads.
Have tried a couple of other pads and stock pads twice now.
Will be stock pads when this set run out.

[Negrogrande]

how much will changing brake fluid make?? I just use standard shell one.



quite a bit of difference in boiling point which in turn changes lever firmness, probably won't make a huge difference in a sprint race, but for something like the 4 hour definitely.

I cooked stock brake fluid in my old TX3 at a drive day at Wacky went to brake after the kink at turn 2 & foot to the floor and car in the grass were the result

[Mr.Ed]

Ok, lemme correct myself there... I did mean to say Castrol SRF but for some reason I thought it was RFS (that reason being I'm dyslexic) and when I looked it up on good it suggested the Motul and I went "Oh... that must be it then!" hahaha My bad! The good one is the SRF though, not the Motul I mentioned. I'll go back and edit that post for future reference...

If you're still in yellow group, -1/+2 will work for you for a while... but once you pick up your speed it will get in the way in more ways than by just limiting your top speed (i.e. I hit the limiter out of T3 and T5 as well... PITA). If you run a tire with a larger diameter, say a 190/60 it will help a bit... on a 180/55 it will prob hit the limiter on the straight even at your current pace.

Also, EBC has 2 different HH pads... make sure to get the RACE ones. The basic (and extremely cheap) HH are no good.

[Marshy]

Speaking of SRF, a mate desperately needs some for his ZX10 for FX tomorrow, and the shops are closed. Does anyone have any lying around?

[KANGA]

Right me and No_style have SBK school L1 booked in for the 27th of November, EC GP track day 28th, wakefield 29th and double header EC track days 21st and 22nd of December. Bit of time to get this hunk of junk ready and something to look forward to :D

[chubb]

That reminds me I have to get my arse into gear and book the 28th GP circuit

[KANGA]

That reminds me I have to get my arse into gear and book the 28th GP circuit
Yeah we waited to long and have had to drop down to white group cause yellow was booked out.

[KANGA]

Mmmm turns out I need to buy some tools. Anyone able to tell me the size of the front sprocket nut?
Need to get a 32mm socket for the rear axle nut and going to grab one of those multi size front axle hex tools for the front axle.

[Mr.Ed]

This!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TL0015-Hex-Wheel-Axle-Tool-Allen-wrench-adapter-Honda-Kawasaki-Yamaha-Suzuki-/271011032004?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f19842bc4&_uhb=1

[KANGA]

This!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TL0015-Hex-Wheel-Axle-Tool-Allen-wrench-adapter-Honda-Kawasaki-Yamaha-Suzuki-/271011032004?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f19842bc4&_uhb=1
Yeah that's what I'm buying for the front axle nut, trying to find the size of the front sprocket nut though since I'll grab a socket for it at the same time.

[Mr.Ed]

Is it the stock front sprocket you're trying to remove? 'Cause if it is and you don't have a VERY powerful rachet gun, don't even bother... it won't budge.

[KANGA]

Is it the stock front sprocket you're trying to remove? 'Cause if it is and you don't have a VERY powerful rachet gun, don't even bother... it won't budge.
lol yeah stock. I've seen videos of people trying to do it. Mate of mine managed to do it with a few friends but took a lot of effort. Have some people coming around to mine to watch PI so will enlist there help, worse comes to worse if that fails I'll source a ratchet gun from some where.

[Mr.Ed]

I've done it on other bikes but I'm yet to see a 09+ ZX6R that doesn't have that problem... I first tried a ratchet gun at a mate's house but he only had like a 30L compressor and it wasn't powerful enough to crack. So when I got home I got the longest pipe I could find to and had a friend hold the bike whilst I put on my might on it. Nothing. In the end, it required a proper mechanic's ratchet gun and even then it wasn't easy.

[Marshy]

I tried my rattle gun with the 30L compressor, and no joy. Spent $1k on a 100L, high HP, high flow-rate compressor, and still nothing. I've since learnt that flow rate isn't everything (and can sometimes be less effective, depending on the air tool itself). But I'm still using an el-cheapo rattle gun, which I should probably upgrade. Then again, today I just rattled off a Panigale rear wheel nut with no effort, and they are notoriously a biatch to get undone.

[chubb]

Kawasaki uses hercules to do up their front sprocket nuts for them as their machines that do it doesnt tighten it up tight enough

[Marshy]

Kawasaki uses hercules to do up their front sprocket nuts for them as their machines that do it doesnt tighten it up tight enough

:pound:

[Little Mick]

27mm deep socket for front sprocket... use impact socket - 6 sided not 12... and a 3/4" impact...

[Negrogrande]

or a snap on 18V rattle they are the tits

[KANGA]

Finally got my slicks fitted today, put the wheels aside until I have time to put them back on and realised I now have no way of knowing which side is the left or right side of the front lol Is there an obvious marker anywhere on the rim? n00b!

[BoB]

not sure about the kwakis but on the cbr 600rr the discs have arrows on them showing the direction , also there is an arrow on the casting on the wheel , maybe different of the zx6

[chubb]

Look at the spokes.. hollow end follows the solid end.

That'll tell you the direction for any motorcycle wheel

[CLIFFY]

There's an arrow on one side only

[KANGA]

Sweet cheers guys!

Few updates
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/IMG_1014.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/IMG_1039.JPG
Box of goodies, just waiting for my link pipe to turn up now
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/IMG_1048.JPG

I put the new brake pads in, I noticed the old one seem quite a bit discoloured on the mounting plates compared to others I've taken out. Is this normal or is it a sign something could be wrong?
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/IMG_1047.JPG

[chubb]

Taking after the little one??

I really need to get of my arse and paint mine

[Mr.Ed]

Some quality parts there, mate! Who did you get the pads from if you mind me asking?!

[CLIFFY]

Bumblebee man

[KANGA]

Taking after the little one??

I really need to get of my arse and paint mine
Whose that? Next time I'm going one colour per piece lol


Some quality parts there, mate! Who did you get the pads from if you mind me asking?!
Sportbike track gear, had pretty good results ordering from them in the past but they lost my order in the system this time. Got it rolling quickly when they realised though.

[KANGA]

Bumblebee man

Yeah theres a gap between the tank cover and the tank which shows some green. My master plan is to cover it with black electrical tape. Quality work all over lol.

[Mr.Ed]

Sportbike track gear, had pretty good results ordering from them in the past but they lost my order in the system this time. Got it rolling quickly when they realised though.

Thanks for that! I didn't realize they sold them... Was it $200 for all the pads? Heaps cheaper than what I have seen around.

[KANGA]

Thanks for that! I didn't realize they sold them... Was it $200 for all the pads? Heaps cheaper than what I have seen around.
It was just under 200 USD for both the front calipers

[Medic!]

Yeah theres a gap between the tank cover and the tank which shows some green. My master plan is to cover it with black electrical tape. Quality work all over lol.

Make sure its race tape. Failing that I have some gold paint.........

[Mr.Ed]

Really good price for Vesrahs! Kurveygirl has them at $270

[Mr.Ed]

Yeah theres a gap between the tank cover and the tank which shows some green. My master plan is to cover it with black electrical tape. Quality work all over lol.

When I had that 'issue' with the tank sliders I just used a black marker... hahahaha

[chubb]

Whose that?

Little Mick.

He's the guy I chase with bright yellow/green flouro bike and leathers

[Little Mick]

Whose that? Next time I'm going one colour per piece lol


232

:second:

[KANGA]

232

:second:

Ahhhahaha best part about this is my name is Mick lol

[Mr.Ed]

Thank God for usernames 'cause Micks are waaaaaaaay over represented on the track these days... hahahahaha

[Little Mick]

Never!!!

[senator8]

Never!!!

I'm afraid Ed's right Mick/s. You Micks could run your own series.

[Little Mick]

I dont think so....
Mick James, Mick Jeffery, Mick Lockhart, Mick Gilligan, Mick Doolan, Mick C... nowhere near enough

[Marshy]

Can I be an honourary member??

Nick

[Mr.Ed]

I dont think so....
Mick James, Mick Jeffery, Mick Lockhart, Mick Gilligan, Mick Doolan, Mick C... nowhere near enough

Mick McLinden... Mick Doohan... Mick Jagger (w8 wat??)

[Little Mick]

was that "Whats Little Mick Doin?"

[Mr.Ed]

Well, it depends on whether or not ♫♪you've got the moves like Jagger♪♫

[KANGA]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/IMG_1050.JPG
Ok front wheel time again lol As far as I can tell the embossed text is only on 1 side. If anyones got a 09+ ZX6 could you take a quick look for me and let me know which sides it on. derp! :dance:

[Mr.Ed]

Sorry mate... my bike is currently having cosmetic surgery elsewhere! haha

[chubb]

Look at the spokes..

[KANGA]

Look at the spokes..

Couldnt find any holes :(

[CLIFFY]

Near center

[chubb]

Couldnt find any holes :(

See the holes in the spokes??

The holes point forward hence telling you the rotation of the tyre

[KANGA]

See the holes in the spokes??

The holes point forward hence telling you the rotation of the tyre

Nothing like that on my spokes, all seem to be solid :S

[chubb]

Hmmm maybe the kwaks are the exception to the rule.

Yammies have them.. so do the suzukis and hondas.

[Mr.Ed]

Different design... Kawas don't have the 3 or 5 spoke design (except the new 10R)

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR2lTl6bwFwu2r3PPIn6L9tFVdu7lwrB BQ873m0hgRy0wXp5OeX

[Little Mick]

There's an arrow on one side only

Im pretty sure CLiffy is right...

also look at the tyre...should indicate a direction...

[Little Mick]

Look at the Arrow near the bolt hole for the rotor
236

[KANGA]

ah hahhhhh! fuckers hard to spot with the brake rotors on and a nice ammount of grime on the top but got it now lol Cheers fellas!

[Marshy]

I get a liquid-paper pen and draw a few arrows on the edge of the rim, just so you don't have to mess around each time. It's not totally permanent, and you can clean it off if you need to remove it later.

[tempest]

I get a liquid-paper pen and draw a few arrows on the edge of the rim, just so you don't have to mess around each time. It's not totally permanent, and you can clean it off if you need to remove it later.

Ditto. Helps the guys changing your tyres too.

[KANGA]

Yeah definitely going down that route next time. I was so excited about getting my first set of slicks fitted I didn't even think about it lol

[KANGA]

Well got the wheels back on and the link pipe and exhaust fitted. Spent a whole bunch of time trying to figure out why my bike was dying after 3 seconds. Turns I had disconnected the vehicle down sensor lol On the upside discovered that its relatively easy to retrieve error codes from the dash.
Theres a car mechanics by the end of my block, went in there this morning and asked one of the guys if he would mind loosening the front sprocket nut off the ZX if I wheeled it down for a coulple of bucks. Turns out hes just on his L's riding a 250 so was happy to oblige so thats sorted and will have a go at the chain and sprockets this weekend hopefully :thumb:

[Phat3R]

Yeah definitely going down that route next time. I was so excited about getting my first set of slicks fitted I didn't even think about it lol

Which slicks did you put on??? There is most likely a direction marker on the tyre that you want to match with direction marker on rim? Although I've heard some people reverse them to gain more bang for buck?

[KANGA]

Which slicks did you put on??? There is most likely a direction marker on the tyre that you want to match with direction marker on rim? Although I've heard some people reverse them to gain more bang for buck?

Set of second hand Pirelli sbk pros, yeah my paranoia kicked in and all I could think was "wait what if the mechanics put it on wrong". They didn't lol

[Mazabuzz]

Dude if i was you id toss those tyre's. The thing with those tyre's is that are really hard and show no visible signs of wear so in the surface it looks like there is plenty of grip but unreality they have gone through plenty of heat cycles. They also have a reputation for letting go if you give it has while cranked over which i can conform first hand

[chubb]

The fronts are pretty good actually but the rears do spin up fairly easily.

Depending on his pace he might be ok with them

[KANGA]

Dude if i was you id toss those tyre's. The thing with those tyre's is that are really hard and show no visible signs of wear so in the surface it looks like there is plenty of grip but unreality they have gone through plenty of heat cycles. They also have a reputation for letting go if you give it has while cranked over which i can conform first hand
They have done half a session and been crashed on. They actually look brand new. Previous owner was a red group rider who thought he would give them a try and crashed with in a few laps after trying to chase after a friend who went past. They are actually in stupidly good condition. I'm still middle of the pack yellow group so should be enough for me for a while yet.

[KANGA]

Got the sprockets on, mid pipe on and new chain this weekend. Just need to sort out new bolts for the tank + front fender and mounting point for the front middle mount of the belly pan. Paint looks good from about 2m away, no closer lol
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/tracky1.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/tracky2.jpg

[chubb]

20/20 rule. Dont forget

[KANGA]

20/20 rule. Dont forget

That's what I've gone with and achieved haha.

[Mr.Ed]

Looks really good, mate!:cool:


But I'm sure you could drop a kg or 2 by using a smaller exhaust hanger! :pound:


Ps: that thing must be loud as with just that little can, no?

[senator8]

Looks good ;)
As Ed said- that hanger supporting the exhaust or the subframe? :tongue:

[CLIFFY]

Ps: that thing must be loud as with just that little can, no?

I think it makes a loud "buzzing" sound

[KANGA]

Its definitely louder now with the mid pipe, no_styles R6 is ear shattering in comparison though lol. Also has a baffle I can put in there if it becomes a problem some day. Exhaust hanger is definitely on the large side, what can I say I can't afford a new rear shock so I need all the support I can get :whistle:
Next time I'll paint some black stripes around the tail piece cliffy :P

[chubb]

Used to have his type of pipe.. essentially just straight through.

Cost me a place at Broady cuz I couldn't do the sneaky sneaky past Stu23

[No_Style]

Its common sense really, if you can't go fast, and you can't even look fast, you may as well try and sound fast....it's my only hope! :D

[Mr.Ed]

Little Mick's R6 definitely sounds VEEEEEEERY fast :lol:

[Little Mick]

Little Mick's R6 definitely sounds VEEEEEEERY fast :lol:

:yield: :nod:

[KANGA]

So finally got it out for the first time in around 8 months and first time since I started the conversion to a tracky. Did lvl1 css wednesday and a track day Thursday, few little hiccups lol.
Came down the main straight during the second session off css realised my tacho wasn't working, then I realised it was the whole dash. Coming out of turn 2 the bikes start surging and spluttering.

Get around to turn 5 and the poor thing just doesn't have the legs to get up the rise so I pull over.
I go to put the kickstand down forgetting I'm standing on grass and jumped up on the wall only to look down and see my bike on its side, things just keep getting better lol. 2 people crashed out in that session so when they came to grab me (since me and the bike were fine) I had to roll my bike back down through turn 5 and 4 in to the pits, wasn't much fun either lol

Damn battery died. From what I've been told I've either got a dead stator or regulator rectifier, wasn't recharging at all. Ended up running over to team moto black town and getting a new one, missed a lesson but didn't miss a session. My neighbor who came out to css ended up lending me his battery so Thursday's track day was spent constantly recharging and swapping batteries between sessions lol. The ctek quick connect charging cables I installed thanks to no_style really paid off. I could usually get 2 session out of each battery and was able to charge them easily between the 2 with out having to take the duck tail off.

Anyway bikes at the mechanics now so will have to wait and see.

Has anyone here run the pirelli sbk pro slicks? I'm running 25 psi rear 32 front hot. I'm finding the rear a bit weird when I open the throttle during cornering. Feels a bit squirmy but I think its just the tyre carcass compressing/deforming and something I have to get used to. I've only ever been on Pirelli rosso2 road tyre with usually around 36/36 psi hot before. Outside of that the bike was awesome, really noticed the difference with the gearing.

CSS was awesome, got a lot more out of it then I thought I would. Think I did it at the right time as well as I was starting to feel I was hitting a bit of a wall with my riding. Thursday was with out a doubt the best track day I have done yet and definitely feel like I can push further from there, bring on december 21st/22nd! Got really lucky with the weather to :thumb:

[KANGA]

Ps: that thing must be loud as with just that little can, no?
After riding it, yes its bloody loud. Did the first session of CSS with out ear plugs and severely regretted it haha

[Little Mick]

look up the rectifier recall 09-+ zx6rs had issues... warranty ;)

[KANGA]

look up the rectifier recall 09-+ zx6rs had issues... warranty ;)

Already had it done when it was still a street bike so that one has sailed :frown:

[CLIFFY]

Ditch the pros
They let go without warning

[chubb]

Ditch the pros
They let go without warning

Yep what he said

[dan]

Yep what he said

Thirded.

[Mazabuzz]

Dude if i was you id toss those tyre's. The thing with those tyre's is that are really hard and show no visible signs of wear so in the surface it looks like there is plenty of grip but unreality they have gone through plenty of heat cycles. They also have a reputation for letting go if you give it has while cranked over which i can conform first hand

Remember this!!!

[Mazabuzz]

fuck me spelling is bad

[KANGA]

shit this is not what a man with no job and a bung reg/rec or stator wants to hear :frown:

The feeling definitely only ever came under acceleration and was worst in the corners I felt comfortable with and got on the gas hardest. On some corners didn't get that feeling at all so I'm thinking if it was the carcass deforming it would be happening on every corner and also not just under acceleration?

Right might start looking at some options *sigh*

[KANGA]

Oh almost forgot. Finding the rear brake HRC tube is sweating and find its sprayed a bit of fluid out of the cap end when I come back in off the track. Got it loosely zip tied to the exhaust hanger at the moment. Can move around easily enough with out straining it, anyone else had problems with the tubes? I'm thinking I might lock wire or get a hose clamp on the cap end to stop the spraying at this point.

[Mr.Ed]

They all sweat... don't sweat! ;) I have mine zip tied to the exhaust hanger I think... it's definitely zip tied to something! hahaha

[Marty]

Oh almost forgot. Finding the rear brake HRC tube is sweating and find its sprayed a bit of fluid out of the cap end when I come back in off the track. Got it loosely zip tied to the exhaust hanger at the moment. Can move around easily enough with out straining it, anyone else had problems with the tubes? I'm thinking I might lock wire or get a hose clamp on the cap end to stop the spraying at this point.

If its squirting out the cap, it's overfull. There should be a decent air gap between the cap and top of the fluid.

[KANGA]

If its squirting out the cap, it's overfull. There should be a decent air gap between the cap and top of the fluid.

That was my first thought but its only 2 thirds full, there's a decent gap so I don't think its that. I'll tie it off and see if it keeps on doing it next track day or not.


They all sweat... don't sweat! ;) I have mine zip tied to the exhaust hanger I think... it's definitely zip tied to something! hahaha

Ok sweet good to know, wont worry about that then. Zip ties definitely are a solution to most of life's problems!

[BoB]

Ditch the hrc tube and replace it with tygon 2075 tubing , problem solved.. kurveygirl sells it

[Medic!]

Stop using brakes. Then the fluid won't get hot and expand. :P

[Negrogrande]

Ditch the hrc tube and replace it with tygon 2075 tubing , problem solved.. kurveygirl sells it

+1 my HRC tube sweated like a bitch I bought my tygon from an aussie place
https://www.ausfr.com.au/cart/shopexd.asp?id=126

was pretty cheap and shipped quickly

[KANGA]

Stop using brakes. Then the fluid won't get hot and expand. :P
Thats why I feel jipped, never touch the bloody rear! lol


Ditch the hrc tube and replace it with tygon 2075 tubing , problem solved.. kurveygirl sells it


+1 my HRC tube sweated like a bitch I bought my tygon from an aussie place
https://www.ausfr.com.au/cart/shopexd.asp?id=126

was pretty cheap and shipped quickly

Cheers bob will look at that stuff and thanks Negrogrande for the link, looks like a good option for it.

Ditch the hrc tube, ditch the super bike pros. Are you guys going to let me keep anything haha :P

Have a set of barely used super corsa sc1 front and rears which will be fitted up soon.

[No_Style]

Ditch the Kawasaki bits and replace them with Yamaha :bolt:

:D

[CLIFFY]

Ditch the Kawasaki bits and replace them with Yamaha :bolt:

:D

Yeah, do that and I'll take your ZX6R and set it up as my spare/wet bike!

[KANGA]

Ditch the Kawasaki bits and replace them with Yamaha :bolt:

:D


Yeah, do that and I'll take your ZX6R and set it up as my spare/wet bike!

Good friends, always looking out for me!! :suspicious:

[Marshy]

Ditch the Kawasaki bits and replace them with Yamaha :bolt:

:D

+1,000,000

And agreed that proper Tygon tubing is da bomb! Cheap, and doesn't sweat at all. It's not as 'cool' as the tinted HRC tube, but who wants form over function on a racebike (besides Baddie)! :pound:

[KANGA]

Well I dun messed up on Friday. Managed to crash during CSS Lvl 2 attempting to follow Cliffy which wasn't the smartest thing I have ever done, especially since I was on road tyres. Didn't even make 1 corner and threw it down on turn 5. lol
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/netrider/IMG_1255.JPG
Wetty came through for me and managed to source me a set of clip on's despite being out of stock him self and dropped them off to me Saturday morning along with a new foot peg. Spent saturday putting it back together. Only annoying part was trying to find a bolt for the foot peg as the bolt supplied was just a tad big for my rear sets. Managed to get one that worked from Cliffy but its a tad short, came loose at one point mid session then bent later in the day so will have to replace that. Got a mate who is a welder repairing the kick stand just need to find a spring of some sort to work with it. May also need a new engine cover, going to take it off and have a look at how worn away it actually is.
Think its about time I sort out some spare parts to keep around to :S
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/netrider/IMG_1259.JPG
Unfortunately my confidence suffered a fair dent and was seriously off the pace when I went out Sunday. Made progress from the start of the day though, hopefully can get it back in a few track days. Will help running around back in green group, had to run in white & yellow since I only booked the day before.

[Marshy]

I feel your Turn 5 pain - I visited the pavement there today! It won't look as bad when the fairings are removed; trust me on this one. Have a good look at the case covers, and if in doubt it's much cheaper to replace them now than when they wear through something more expensive.

It's a very good idea to carry the following items as a minimum: spare levers, spare clip-on bars (and if you have race/aftermarket clip-ons, that's very very easy, as spare bars are cheap, easy to carry and easy to replace), and spare footpegs - or better yet, spare rearsets. What I often do is fit aftermarket rearsets and then carry the OEM ones as emergency spares.

Oh, and I have ZX6R clip-ons in stock ;)

[KANGA]

I feel your Turn 5 pain - I visited the pavement there today! It won't look as bad when the fairings are removed; trust me on this one. Have a good look at the case covers, and if in doubt it's much cheaper to replace them now than when they wear through something more expensive.

It's a very good idea to carry the following items as a minimum: spare levers, spare clip-on bars (and if you have race/aftermarket clip-ons, that's very very easy, as spare bars are cheap, easy to carry and easy to replace), and spare footpegs - or better yet, spare rearsets. What I often do is fit aftermarket rearsets and then carry the OEM ones as emergency spares.

Oh, and I have ZX6R clip-ons in stock ;)
Don't suppose you found my kick stand spring did you? lol. We took the fairings off completely to get all the gravel out from around the engine, reckon I picked up a solid kg or two of the stuff in the belly pan alone haha. Probably won't worry about the paint as I'm still very much learning so its not unlikely that it could happen again.Seemed like turn 5 claimed at least 4 people in the last 3 days then that I know of.
I actually called and left a message for you friday afternoon before I called Wetty :(
I now have the oem rear sets and levers in my tool box, will organise some clip on bars soon. Need to get my leathers repaired properly and a new under armour shirt at some point to as that has a nice hole in it where it burned through.

[CLIFFY]

I think everyone learns the hard way what they should have in their box of spares.
You got back on the bike, that's the main thing.

[Phat3R]

I should apply for a contract to sweep SMSP once a month with a metal detector and sell all the missing parts back to original owners. There must be tons of metal and cameras and expensive bike parts out there. Save SMSP on mower blade damage.

I'm missing a gas cap out there ... somewhere ...

[Phat3R]

- 2010 "Kangasaki" ZX-6R
"My new years resolution is no crashes in 2013" - Crashed January 12th 2013.

Might want to update your sig too KANGA :)

[Marshy]

Oops, sorry I missed your call! My bad for not ringing back; humble apologies.

And don't worry too much about crashing. It's all part of the learning process. You know what they say: If you don't crash, you're not trying hard enough!

I always try to ensure that I understand why I crashed and learn from it. Tyres, some mechanical issue that can be fixed (both of my last recent crashes), incorrect line, chopping the throttle, whatever.

And I love your sig! Very cool ;)

[KANGA]

No worries mate, all turned out ok in the end :) Really like the community down there, had a few people coming by and helping as I was rebuilding it.

I have definitely had a think about the crash and its largely down to the tyres. I think I would have been fine had I been on racing slicks instead of road tyres, I just went way above what they were ever intended for and quite possibly just rolled off the edge of it. Of course there is my stupidity of trying to chase someone a lot faster then me and with the wrong equipment. Fair to say my ambition outweighed my talent.

One thing it has really highlighted is my lack of braking markers. I was tending to go off of instinct and with my confidence shot my instinct was way off so I found it harder to try and get back to where I was before so that's something I'm going to work on. Probably made a little bit harder again since the last experience on track was 3 sessions of running around in CSS with no brakes.

I just realised I came off on the 24th so I have doubled the days since last years first crash, making progressssssss!!!!!!!! :rofl:

[Marty]

Oh bad luck Mick :( I thought I saw your damaged bike on the weekend (just went out to watch with the mrs) but there's some imposter bikes getting around so I wasn't 100% sure.

Good job fixing it and getting out there again.

Also bad luck to Nick, I hope you didn't aggravate your healing ankle :(

[Marshy]

Nah, all good Marty, thanks. I saw you off in the distance, but didn't get a chance to catch up. This weekend?

[KANGA]

Oh bad luck Mick :( I thought I saw your damaged bike on the weekend (just went out to watch with the mrs) but there's some imposter bikes getting around so I wasn't 100% sure.

Good job fixing it and getting out there again.

Also bad luck to Nick, I hope you didn't aggravate your healing ankle :(

Cheers mate. Yeah I was out running around in white/yellow on Sunday. Saturday spent the first half of the day in the garage fixing the zx and for some reason turned in to mother hen worrying about my mates out there. Really does suck when your not in the mix your self.
Was glad I got out again so soon now. Best advice given to me. Everyone down at css was encouraging and supportive, was my first fast crash so was a bit shook up. Thanks again Cliffy for offering me some of your spares to.

[CLIFFY]

No prob. What goes around, comes around.

[KANGA]

Thinking about repainting the bike since I'll be waiting a little while on my new suit so won't be back out on track until April 19th earliest.
Anyone able to recommend any rattle can paint that won't break the bank. Old paint I used was shockingly bad.

[stevem]

I don't know,You could have a full ASBK grid there
I dont think so....
Mick James, Mick Jeffery, Mick Lockhart, Mick Gilligan, Mick Doolan, Mick C... nowhere near enough

[chubb]

Thinking about repainting the bike since I'll be waiting a little while on my new suit so won't be back out on track until April 19th earliest.
Anyone able to recommend any rattle can paint that won't break the bank. Old paint I used was shockingly bad.

Rustoleum or Wattyl

[Baddie]

Supercheap auto china specials for $3 a can for colour :thumb:

[KANGA]

Supercheap auto china specials for $3 a can for colour :thumb:

Any one actually tried those export paints? cause price is right lol

Planning on going black pretty much all over except for white on the screen and tail for eventual race numbers. Leave the front fender as is.

[Mr.Ed]

I did but I only used black and white... it turned out ok (might have pics here somewhere if you're interested) and it was my first time painting anything.

[KANGA]

That would be great thanks Ed :thumb:

[CLIFFY]

Whatever they sell at peps auto done the trick a few times now

[KANGA]

Peps auto, Marshy's sponsor right? :D

[Mr.Ed]

Here you go, mate...

Painted only one side first to see how hard it would be. I sanded everything by hand and the paint was a BIATCH to remove... lots of coats, different colors even, and clear coat on some parts.

Before (black painted on top of yellow on top of silver, I think):

https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/732x690q90/689/p3110001u.jpg

AFTER - Sanded it down completely and prepped it then just sprayed the black straight on, no primer or anything.

https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/922x691q90/341/p3110002m.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/922x691q90/109/p3050019.jpg

Slapped on a sticker and at speed at a certain distance it didn't look too bad IMHO

https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1015x677q90/202/img7989q.jpg

I also painted most of the white bits but can't remember if it was done before or after this picture... sorry!

[Marshy]

Peps auto, Marshy's sponsor right? :D

:pound: :pound:

[KANGA]

Looks pretty good to me Ed! Think I'll give it a go, cheers mate!

[Mr.Ed]

No worries! My only advices are to NOT save on the sanding bit... and do several light coats instead of a few thick ones 'cause the cheap paint is more likely to run

[James_]

Ive found "fiddly bits" from bunnings suprisingly good. $3 per can. I did a whole trailer with the stuff for about $30. Paint is cheap and nasty, but good enough. Best thing is the spray nozzles are fair superior than more expensive paints. No clog and great spray pattern.

[KANGA]

So turns out I fucked up thread on the fairing mount on the side of the chassis.
Anyone know how I can remove and replace this or a fixing solution?
Have tried re-tapping it but it didn't work.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/netrider/IMG_1294.JPG

[No_Style]

Heli-Coil or Time-Sert are the best bets, unless there is sufficient internal room in the frame rails box section to use a Rivnut or Nutsert which would also do the job.

[Little Mick]

These are actually nutserts. I bought a kit from eBay for around $100 with around 400 inserts in it and the tool as I paid a shop to do it the first time and cost me $50.... This kit comes in a box similar to a fishing tackle box and the tool looks similar to a pop rivet gun


Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[Little Mick]

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/171112247703?nav=SEARCH

Try this link

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[Marshy]

Thanks Mick! That looks like a 'must have' addition to the workshop. :thumb:

[CBR42]

Those rivet nuts are addictive once you start using them in stuff and if you plan on using them often and you have a compressor its worth getting the air powered one.Only costs about 160 bucks.We had the hand operated version at work and fracked it within a week.

[No_Style]

Which air tool did you get CBR?
Been looking for one, but most of the ones I find are really exy!

[Phat3R]

I searched on those terms and watched sum vids ... that fairing mount hole is part of the frame, so woodn't a TIME-SERT be more appropriate, because the NUTSERT needs to get behind something, like a rivet, and even then can't be too thick?

TIME-SERT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anjDQJtWFc8

NUT-SERT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz2yZNqGNqo

[CBR42]

I'll check for the exact site on monday but when we bought it there were two sites selling them for around the same price and the pictures on both looked exactly the same ,one in Vic and this one in NSW.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stealth-Nutsert-Rivnut-Air-Hydraulic-Tool-Rivet-Nut-Riveter-Gun-Tools-Garage-/330816864315?pt=AU_Air_Tools&hash=item4d0638c03b&_uhb=1

When looking originally,after we rooted the hand operated one we were quoted $1000 bucks for an air operated one form a local tool supplier :der:.Take my chances with the cheapy thanks.

[CBR42]

I searched on those terms and watched sum vids ... that fairing mount hole is part of the frame, so woodn't a TIME-SERT be more appropriate, because the NUTSERT needs to get behind something, like a rivet, and even then can't be too thick?

TIME-SERT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anjDQJtWFc8


NUT-SERT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz2yZNqGNqo

Depending on how thick the frame material is at that point.May only be about 3 or 4 millimetres thick which would be fine for the rivet nut .Tricky bit is probably getting the old one out without enlarging the original hole.The rivet nuts work best with a snug fit.

[No_Style]

I searched on those terms and watched sum vids ... that fairing mount hole is part of the frame, so woodn't a TIME-SERT be more appropriate, because the NUTSERT needs to get behind something, like a rivet, and even then can't be too thick?

TIME-SERT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anjDQJtWFc8

NUT-SERT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz2yZNqGNqo

CBR is on the money.

The determining factors are how thick (read how 'deep') the host material is that the nutsert/rivnut/helicoil/timsert is going into, as well as how much room is available, particularly true where it's a blind installation (blind being something you can't get to the back of, like the inside of box section etc).
Thread replacements (Helicoil/Time-Sert) need to be supported for their full length by the host material (i.e. the box section wall needs to be as thick, as the thread replacement is long - for optimal strength anyway) to achieve their proper load rating as the last threads do a lot to lock the insert in place in the host material. Riveting nuts (rivnuts/nutserts) are self supporting on the other hand (i.e. the threaded bit can and will be hanging out in mid air - it doesn't need host material around it). Similarly, there's a relationship between the size of a nutsert's diameter and the wall thickness it can be installed in (i.e. if you want a small bolt diameter in a really thick wall material, a nutsert won't be long enough to be able to expand correctly).

So, thread replacements work well for replacing threads that are fully supported (that is, normally a thread that was tapped into the original material which is relatively thick/deep), where as nutserts work well for thin wall blind applications as long as there is enough space available. In this particular instance you need to know the wall thickness, and CBR is probably on the money, it's probably only a few mm's or so thick which would be pushing your luck with a thread replacement (http://www.timesert.com/html/faq.html#5).

Having said all that, its worth noting that a conventional thread holds most of the load on the first two (sometimes three depending on design) threads closest to the load side. So, in theory there isn't much point having the whole thread replacement supported to it's full depth from the bolts point of view; the problem is that if you don't fully support it, you'll just rip the new thread replacement straight back out of the host material if you tighten up the bolt too much....

[CBR42]

I'd be tempted to just drill out the old nut and just go up a thread size.Off the top of my head i think they are 5mm thread (or is it 6?) from 5 to 6 would only need about a 10mm hole for the new nut.From 6 to 8 probably needs about 13mm.

[Little Mick]

If this is on a zx6r like mine then oem is the nutserts I linked. Can't tap a thread as no meat....

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[Marshy]

Well I ended up buying one of those kits off egay.... I think it was a similar one to the linked one above, not that exact one (but they are same same anyway). And I had the opportunity to try it out yesterday, as I wanted to fit a Woodcraft shark fin to the Ape. The usual 11mm hole required for the Woodcraft-supplied collapsible nutsert thingies was going to be waaaay too big for the very narrow swingarm size.

So after Dan figured out how to use the damn thing (thanks mate!), I drilled some much smaller holes and inserted a couple of M5 rivnuts. Bloody unreal!! They look factory! Very impressed. Solid as a rock, and easy to install. I'm a convert!

[dan]

^^ like, ordered one this morning

[Little Mick]

Happy with mine also... For what it's worth it took some head scratching for the first one as well.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[KANGA]

I've ordered a tool but not the nutserts yet, Mick what size do I need for that spot? Don't have any bolt measuring majigga things handy.
*Edit* never mind found out its an m6

Finally got round to painting the fairings on the weekend, don't have any fancy spray facilities so just made do with what I could in the olds back yard :D
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/netrider/IMG_1309.JPG

[Marshy]

Love the spray booth!!! ;)

[No_Style]

Yeah, I got myself some nutserts and pneumatic tool (Stealth Tools nutser gun off fleabay - does up to M10). They are great little things to have around for repairs and mods!

[CBR42]

Yeah, I got myself some nutserts and pneumatic tool (Stealth Tools nutser gun off fleabay - does up to M10). They are great little things to have around for repairs and mods!

:clap:
One small thing to watch out for when you change thread inserts ,that insert bit that the threaded bar attaches to that goes in the gun is left hand thread.

Marshy did you go pneumatic?

[Marshy]

Yeah, the LH thread caught me out for a few seconds when I went to remove it after use ;)

I just got the cheapie manual jobbie - I'm only gonna use it very occasionally, so it'll do for now. It's a bloody ripper!

[Negrogrande]

I need one of these dealies to wack some mounting points for the gixxer, Dan, I'll swap you the M/C for two of those jobbies fitted :P

[dan]

I need one of these dealies to wack some mounting points for the gixxer, Dan, I'll swap you the M/C for two of those jobbies fitted :P

deal lad

[KANGA]

If anyone's interested I bought this one, cheaper then the whole kit and kaboodle. Bought just the nutserts I needed for the job from another ebay seller for $6.75 shipped. Knowing my luck I'll suddenly need to use every size of nutsert and wish I had bought the proper kit with in a week of it turning up lol
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PROFESSIONAL-4mm-8mm-THREADED-RIVET-NUT-NUTSERT-RIVNUT-INSERT-SETTING-TOOL-NEW-/360463087894?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item53ed463916

[KANGA]

Back in black.
Nutsert tool finally turned up. I had to expand the hole in the chassis slightly for the nutsert. OEM one's were evidently 9mm in diameter but the ones I bought were 9.5 so drilled it out a bit.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/netrider/photo%204.JPG https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/netrider/photo%201.JPG

[Marshy]

Looks fantastic!! :thumb:

[dan]

Very nice!

[Mr.Ed]

Yep, I like it too!! It does need a bit of fluoro on the bellypan to break it up a bit IMHO... Maybe a sticker of your race # or smt will do!

[Marty]

Looks good Mick!

[KANGA]

Yep, I like it too!! It does need a bit of fluoro on the bellypan to break it up a bit IMHO... Maybe a sticker of your race # or smt will do!

Will wait until my mega flouro gimoto leathers turn up before I decide on adding any more flouro ;)

Will be back out on the 19th, fingers crossed I can start bouncing back from the crash. Have some things I want to work on which will hopefully up my confidence.

[dan]

Will wait until my mega flouro gimoto leathers turn up before I decide on adding any more flouro ;)

Will be back out on the 19th, fingers crossed I can start bouncing back from the crash. Have some things I want to work on which will hopefully up my confidence.

Good luck!

[Negrogrande]

Hey Mick, what paint did you use for the fluoro?

I've patched my fairings and will need to rub down and re-paint, wanted to get some fluoro in there somewhere

[KANGA]

Good luck!

Cheers mate!


Hey Mick, what paint did you use for the fluoro?

I've patched my fairings and will need to rub down and re-paint, wanted to get some fluoro in there somewhere

I used blaze yellow plastidip spray over the white primer I laid down for the paint. I tried a few different fluro paints in the past which turned out badly with a weird texture to them. This is a much better result but still not as nice as some proper flouro paint if anyone can recommend a good brand to you.

[Negrogrande]

I used blaze yellow plastidip spray over the white primer I laid down for the paint. I tried a few different fluro paints in the past which turned out badly with a weird texture to them. This is a much better result but still not as nice as some proper flouro paint if anyone can recommend a good brand to you.

How many cans did you use?

I might do my wheels as well, (just watched a sweet vid on YT)

[KANGA]

How many cans did you use?

I might do my wheels as well, (just watched a sweet vid on YT)

That was about 3 quarters of a can. Definitely put down a white coat first if you decide to use it. The rims just have rim tape, didn't use plastidip on that.

[KANGA]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/netrider/IMG_1351_2.jpg
Couldn't help my self. Monster and Kawasaki go together like green eggs and ham.
If anyone's out there tomorrow then see you out there!

[Marshy]

Looks great!!

[Phat3R]

Nice touch ... looks great.

[Mazabuzz]

I fucking love your scorpion exhuast

[KANGA]

I fucking love your scorpion exhuast

Yep sounds amazing to!

I made good progress yesterday. Pre crash I was doing consistent 2:23s. I started the day doing 2:26s still feeling wobbly after the crash, went down to 2:20s then came down to consistent 2:18s for the last 2 sessions with a random 2:16 in there. So my consistent lap time is 5 seconds faster then my pre crash time and my pb is 7 so stoked with that :) Just wish I had made it a double header weekend now

[zoidberg]

Hey mate, fun day out there yesterday! Were you in green? I saw you on the track a couple of times. the bike looks great! Exhaust sounds nice too.

[KANGA]

Yep I was out there plodding about in green group, had a blast in the last 2 sessions. Which bike was yours?

[zoidberg]

Mine is the 04 R1 next to the wall. My rear tyre started to go off in the 2nd last session, was a shame I got out at near the front of the=at one and had clear track after a couple of laps!

Are you heading out monday aswell?

[KANGA]

nah won't be out again until the end of June at this rate

[dan]

Yep sounds amazing to!

I made good progress yesterday. Pre crash I was doing consistent 2:23s. I started the day doing 2:26s still feeling wobbly after the crash, went down to 2:20s then came down to consistent 2:18s for the last 2 sessions with a random 2:16 in there. So my consistent lap time is 5 seconds faster then my pre crash time and my pb is 7 so stoked with that :) Just wish I had made it a double header weekend now

That's great mate, congrats!

[KANGA]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/netrider/IMG_1393.JPGhttps://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/netrider/IMG_1392.JPGhttps://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/netrider/IMG_1394.JPG
Hey guys noticed this on my rear tyre, the gouge I'm hoping was just from running over something but the vertical lines are weirding me out. They kind off start and stop like that all around the tyre. I'm a bit worried its something like the 2 compounds splitting.
Anyone got any idea of what it could be? Tyre is a kr451 7455/2662 (Med/Soft) the soft is on the right hand side.

[Marshy]

You're actually right in your assessment, although it's nothing to worry about. The vertical split is just the delineation between the two compounds. It won't split apart, don't worry! It's not the underlying carcass, just the overlying 'grippy' rubber surface.

The gouge is also just that. I'd be more worried about that, personally. Although it looks fine, just keep an eye on it.

[KANGA]

Just got a reply from dunlopracing.com


The one gouge is from running over something, but it’s not deep and does not look like an issue.

The other is the seam, again not an issue. It’s just where the center compounds meet the side compound. There are several layers there and it just on the surface and not an issue. Nothing to be concerned about.

[KANGA]

Cool thanks marshy, you replied to quickly!

[Marshy]

I'm just lucky my assessment matched Dunlop's!!

Although there also is this to consider:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/t1.0-9/10264317_832962230051848_1608898474146147055_n.jpg

[No_Style]

Haha, that's a classic Marshy!

[KANGA]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/netrider/IMG_1439.JPG
Holy fuck can see why a bike lift table would be useful. Installing one of these + an injured shoulder & pec from the floor was a fucken painful experience. That's not even including the part when the drill got caught the edge of the weld that goes down the swing arm, ripped it self out of my hands and smacked me in the face! ... even I think that one was pretty special lol :confused:
That weld made things pretty annoying though. Had to off set it so it sticks out a bit. Not the prettiest but meh it works.
Won't end up like Daryl Beattie now!
714

[KANGA]

Bought these LED strips for a couple of bucks, my intention is to have them wired up (by no_style:bowl:) to the current shift light on the dash which isn't very visible. Will be stuck on top of the dash which is partially covered by the number board on the wind screen. If it works out it should light up the back of the number board red.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23160110/netrider/IMG_1479.JPG
Also Finally sorted out a proper set of leathers. yay!
739

[Marshy]

Wow, those leathers are perfect!!! :peace:

[Mr.Ed]

I like the LED idea... the ZX6's shift light sucks!

[KANGA]

I like the LED idea... the ZX6's shift light sucks!

Yeah doesnt help that its the same colour as the low fuel light to, I thought I might have a fueling problem once because I thought the fuel light kept flickering on until I realised it was the bloody shift light ... again not one of my finest moments lol


Wow, those leathers are perfect!!! :peace:
Not gonna lie, wearing em right now lol

[chubb]

Nice bright leathers!!!

[CLIFFY]

Gunna be lit up like a Christmas tree at around 14400rpm

[Mr.Ed]

14400?? Bit early, no?

[CLIFFY]

14400?? Bit early, no?

Mick isn't setting up a redline light, he's setting up a shift light. I'm not sitting in front of the bike or googling for an exact response as I have a real life, but all 3 of my ZX6Rs SHIFT LIGHTS come on pretty fucken close to 14400.

But then again, you have stated previously that your bike uses over a 1L per session more (but no exact measurement given) than the one I use to own and my current 2 ZX6Rs, so maybe I don't have a clue again?? No?

[Marty]

I've found anything over 14,000 is losing speed on my cbr :( but it uses jack shit fuel lol


Nice leathers Mick!

[James_]

Wow, those leathers are perfect!!! :peace:

Agreed!

[Mr.Ed]

Mick isn't setting up a redline light, he's setting up a shift light. I'm not sitting in front of the bike or googling for an exact response as I have a real life, but all 3 of my ZX6Rs SHIFT LIGHTS come on pretty fucken close to 14400.

But then again, you have stated previously that your bike uses over a 1L per session more (but no exact measurement given) than the one I use to own and my current 2 ZX6Rs, so maybe I don't have a clue again?? No?

Sensitive subject is it?

Anyway, just don't see the point of having the lights flashing for 1000rpms till you change gears...

What that has to do with fuel consumption beats me. Disagreeing with you is not an insult... Nor did I ever say you 'don't have a clue'. Gearing, map, riding style are just a few things that can influence the outcome so when I mentioned the number I get (whenever that was) those were exactly it.

The.numbers.I.got. It was never personal.

[Marshy]

don't see the point of having the lights flashing for 1000rpms till you change gears...

Oh c'mon Ed, I have mine flashing for like 30 seconds each gear change!! And they build colours and number of LEDs as the revs go up, before finally flashing all of them at once for a while (the white high-intensity ones at the very end are really blindingly bright too). It makes me feel sooooooooo MotoGP/Formula 1!! :humble::humble::humble::humble::humble:

[Mr.Ed]

Hahaha not gonna lie to you, when I had the shift i on the R6 it would start lighting up at 12k and then flash like a disco light at 15.5k. Useful little thing that was!

[CLIFFY]

Sensitive subject is it?

Just that you've questioned 2 of my posts now on different forums for no good reason.

Disagreeing is an insult without a decent alternative as a reply.

[Mr.Ed]

All due respect, mate... They are, as you said, forums*! So my experiences/opinions differ from yours, well... That's a part of it. Questioning is a part of it too otherwise what you should be doing is writing your blog!

I never even disagreed with you, I asked the reason behind your suggestion (14.4krpm) which IMHO is fair game in a forum. Maybe you knew something I didn't and I could learn from that as I have in many occasions, both here and in other forums. And that to me is a good reason to question. I honestly don't even know to what post you're referring to re fuel consumption, I'm sure it happened, but I seriously don't recall it... So forgive me if I can't explain the ins and outs of that particular post. I assume you or someone else asked about the zx6r fuel consumption on track and we got different results. Not sure why that would offend anyone or if it does, why you should be offended and not me?! I'm not btw.

Also, if you like following my posts, you might have noticed I'm usually more inclined to mention I don't know shit than to offer an indisputable truth. Or maybe, just maybe, reserve judgement since the internet is a bitch to convey sentiments and we have never even met in person that I'm aware.


* "A meeting or medium where ideas and views on a particular issue can be exchanged"

[Mr.Ed]

Back on topic, riding with Kanga and Little Mick at the same time will probably feel blinding fast... Hahaha

I need to work on my fluoro, no excuses.

[Marty]

In all seriousness isn't your shift point determined by your dyno sheet? Obviously two bikes of different models and mods will be different..

As far as I know your ideal shift point is at peak torque. This is what they used to say in drag racing. I just checked my dyno sheet and peak torque is at 14.1 which is the number I came to by seat of the pants feel.

[Mr.Ed]

Well, that is a good question... Which I once asked a racer heaps better than I'll ever be and his answer was "tachos are at least just as optimistic as speedos. Most are worst. That's why you see your R6* rev past what is supposed to be the limiter. So if you know your shift point is supposed to be 15Krpm, plan to shift past that. On a 600 I'll usually change gears just before it hits the limiter because even if the power drops a bit after the peak is nowhere near as bad as when you find yourself just a bit under"

Well, that's not a word by word account but you get the gist of it! Hahaha Anyway, I've doing that since on race days and I like the results. I tend not shift a bit earlier on regular track days though but that's just because I don't need/want to push the engine when I'm not even racing.

Surely someone else has a better insight into the matter though

*Had a R6 back in the day

[Marty]

Yeh the R6s were famous for those tachos. I got aftermarket dash so there's a chance it's right. That's why I've just dialed my shift lights in by feel. When I watch my videos I can see/hear the power dropoff on an overrev. Also just riding I'll play around shifting a fraction earlier or later relative to the lights and I can see if it's better or worse. I'm happy where I've got it now but it's interesting to see it line up with my peak torque exactly though

[chubb]

In all seriousness isn't your shift point determined by your dyno sheet? Obviously two bikes of different models and mods will be different..

As far as I know your ideal shift point is at peak torque. This is what they used to say in drag racing. I just checked my dyno sheet and peak torque is at 14.1 which is the number I came to by seat of the pants feel.

Yep.

I set my shift points just after peak HP

That way I have over rev to run if I need to by about 1200rpms

[Little Mick]

In all seriousness isn't your shift point determined by your dyno sheet? Obviously two bikes of different models and mods will be different..

As far as I know your ideal shift point is at peak torque. This is what they used to say in drag racing. I just checked my dyno sheet and peak torque is at 14.1 which is the number I came to by seat of the pants feel.


Well, that is a good question... Which I once asked a racer heaps better than I'll ever be and his answer was "tachos are at least just as optimistic as speedos. Most are worst. That's why you see your R6* rev past what is supposed to be the limiter. So if you know your shift point is supposed to be 15Krpm, plan to shift past that. On a 600 I'll usually change gears just before it hits the limiter because even if the power drops a bit after the peak is nowhere near as bad as when you find yourself just a bit under"

Well, that's not a word by word account but you get the gist of it! Hahaha Anyway, I've doing that since on race days and I like the results. I tend not shift a bit earlier on regular track days though but that's just because I don't need/want to push the engine when I'm not even racing.

Surely someone else has a better insight into the matter though

*Had a R6 back in the day

some small change worth of input...

take this graph below as a reference....

740

from here...

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/311/16261/Motorcycle-Article/Kawasaki-Ninja-ZX-6R-vs-636-on-the-Dyno.aspx

location of peak torque can be much lower than peak HP due to a function of revs... from the graphs above - you can see that the torque is almost a flat line, but the power keeps going up... (torque is still uber critical though as as it drops off, the rate of horsepower created also reduces until it goes backwards)

For those of us that ride the later zx6r's, we would be shifting upwards of 14k.. to get really anal (critical for drag) you would look at the delta in RPM between gears and factor that into how much hp you have on tap as you go up the revs vs what you would have if you shifted a gear, not to mention where you are on track (straight, turn, exit etc...)

so in the case of the graph, depending on the gear you are in and the change in RPM for that gear, for a shift point of 14k, 1-2 will drop revs approx. 2600 rpm to 11350, and 5-6 change will drop revs by 1200 rpm to 12800. The shift point might be around 15000+ in the lower gear changes to get you higher up the HP curve on the shift, but in the 5-6 gear change, you may be better off changing around 14500ish.

Generally I shift on feel at around 15.5k ish but don't look at the shift light (not that it would help as its almost invisible). I haven't consciously changed gears at a certain rpm for a specific gear, but may inadvertently do it pending track position...

Note, this is all theoretical and you need to factor in the speed lost due to gear shift (minimal with QS) and a whole heap of other factors but you get the drift.

Cheers

Mick

[Mr.Ed]

I did do this one experiment completely not scientific at all where I shifted out T12 at 14k (cause I too saw a graph like the one above) for a whole and then did the same thing next session but shifting at past 15.5k. I got an avg top speed around 5km/h higher on the second session! How much of that was due to me twisting the throttle harder/earlier or not, or braking later, head winds vs tail wind, I don't know but the speeds around T12 were remarkably close.

[Little Mick]

Ed Zachary . It's all about the angles of the curves and where you are on it.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[Mr.Ed]

Mick Doohan, you and I both know I look at those curves and pretend someone drew a slippery dip...

[Little Mick]

Hahaha:)

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[KANGA]

754
If anyones interested, R6 Throttle tube (left) vs ZX6R throttle tube(right)

[Mr.Ed]

Straight swap?? That does look good.

[KANGA]

Straight swap?? That does look good.

Supposed to be able to lol, will post up the results

[Mr.Ed]

hahaha please do! ;)

[Negrogrande]

I've done it on the gsxr cheap mod works well

[KANGA]

Works a treat, just got around to installing it.
New problem though, evidently the little notch thing in the throttle housing that's supposed to keep it in place has broken off and the fucking housing is twisting around the bar when I get to WOT. Anyone got a easy fix solution for that?

[Negrogrande]

Works a treat, just got around to installing it.
New problem though, evidently the little notch thing in the throttle housing that's supposed to keep it in place has broken off and the fucking housing is twisting around the bar when I get to WOT. Anyone got a easy fix solution for that?

had the same problem on my aprilia, never figured out how to fix it

[Marshy]

Usually I find with throttle housings, I can just do them up really tight and it's ok. The run/stop switchblock always causes me issues when people have chopped off the nipple. For this, I just wrap the bar in a few turns of electrical tape and then tighten the switchblock up onto the tape. Works a treat! Never moves again.

You could maybe try the same thing with the throttle, but you'd need to be really careful you position the tape so the throttle tube has no chance of getting stuck on it!!

[chubb]

The run/stop switchblock always causes me issues when people have chopped off the nipple. For this, I just wrap the bar in a few turns of electrical tape and then tighten the switchblock up onto the tape. Works a treat! Never moves again.

guilty.. haha I don't like to keep drilling into the clipon especially on the track with no drill bit!

[Marshy]

guilty.. haha I don't like to keep drilling into the clipon especially on the track with no drill bit!

So you're the one! ;)

Handyman would have a spare bar all ready to pop in, pre-drilled and sitting in the spares box..... :thumb:

[Mr.Ed]

Yep, I had that problem with the Driven clip on... PITA!

[KANGA]

Sweet sounds cheap an easy! I'll give it a go

[KANGA]

Shit that really does work, Cheers Marshy!

[Marshy]

Anytime, mate :thumb:

[KANGA]

Hey guys just trying to make a list to get my bike race ready.

Have Safety wired my
-Radiator cap.
-Coolant drain bolt.
-Sump Plug.
-Oil filler cap.
-Brake Caliper bolts
-Have the chain guard installed.
-Flushed the coolant out for distilled water.

I need tooooooo

-get plugs for the belly pan.
-Over flow bottle.
-Take off the kickstand.
-Race numbers

Also I believe i need to get a ring or something put around the end of my muffler as its not rounded. How strict are they on that one?

Anything else I'm missing?

[Negrogrande]

Hey guys just trying to make a list to get my bike race ready.



Also I believe i need to get a ring or something put around the end of my muffler as its not rounded. How strict are they on that one?


Anything else I'm missing?

have you changed your muffler since the last time? last one you had was fine

[senator8]

Hey guys just trying to make a list to get my bike race ready.

Have Safety wired my
-Radiator cap.
-Coolant drain bolt.
-Sump Plug.
-Oil filler cap.
-Brake Caliper bolts
-Have the chain guard installed.
-Flushed the coolant out for distilled water.

I need tooooooo

-get plugs for the belly pan.
-Over flow bottle.
-Take off the kickstand.
-Race numbers

Also I believe i need to get a ring or something put around the end of my muffler as its not rounded. How strict are they on that one?

Anything else I'm missing?

Oil filter?
You got case guards for anything that may touch?

[Little Mick]

Shark fin?

[CLIFFY]

Take the kickstand off on race day, but you will have to loop the circuit on the kickstand safety sensor.
Get yourself some spares like pegs, bars, levers, screen.....

[WETTY]

and dont let your talent out weigh you ambition. There was alot of this at the last round

[CLIFFY]

Or at least save it for the last lap so the race is run

[WETTY]

Or at least save it for the last lap so the race is run

Yeh leavin pit lane is a bit premmy

[Marshy]

and dont let your talent out weigh you ambition. There was alot of this at the last round

http://cdn.meme.am/instances/500x/54503768.jpg

[CLIFFY]

Just launch it out of the garage into pit lane wall
You'll be famous

[KANGA]

Yep same slip on exhaust Andrew. I've seen some people get the ring majigga things put over the end and thought it was a regulation thing.
Ah yes I have safety wired the oil filter forgot about that. Have GB racing covers on there at the moment.
Sorry Mick meant sharkfin/toe guard when I said chain guard so thats good to go.
I've got 2 spare screens, spare clipons bars, spare foot pegs, complete set of oem rear sets, spare oem throttle tube and spare levers.

Don't worry I watched the St George round on the Sunday and saw more then enough crashes to know to take it easy in my first meet. If it wasn't for tarmac talk and my facebook feed blowing up about what a cluster fuck it was and how it was so out of the norm I probably would have ditched the idea of racing all together.

[Negrogrande]

Yep same slip on exhaust Andrew. I've seen some people get the ring majigga things put over the end and thought it was a regulation thing.


It is for the people with a dan moto special slash cut exhaust tip

[KANGA]

Thats what my end looks like, going to be a problem?
999

[senator8]

Thats what my end looks like, going to be a problem?
999

Doesn't look like it would pass. 3mm edge thickness minimum.
The question is would you like to land on it or be hit by it, or have someone else crash into it?
Cookie cutter?

[Kris]

It is for the people with a dan moto special slash cut exhaust tip


And people with the Austin Racing shit...

[Marshy]

The question is would you like to land on it or be hit by it, or have someone else crash into it?
Cookie cutter?

Yep, and considering the impacts people suffered at St George, a cookie cutter outcome is fairly likely. I've got (courtesy of johnny b) one of those Dan Moto sized egg-fry rings spare. Dunno if it's the same size tho.

[KANGA]

How much marshy? I'll measure up tonight.

[Marshy]

One billion dollars! I dunno - ask johnny b :thumb: If it fits - find that out first. I don't think it was exxy.

[Saturnalian]

Just launch it out of the garage into pit lane wall
You'll be famous

Personally i prefer to launch back in to the garage after the race.....

[dan]

Personally i prefer to launch back in to the garage after the race.....

Launch straight to the esky for a cold beer!

[Marshy]

:cheer::cheer::cheer:

[johnnyb]

If the egg ringy thing fits it's yours Kanga. You can pay the 1 billion dollars later. I will split it with Marshy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CLIFFY]

Personally i prefer to launch back in to the garage after the race.....

Not pitting with you again

[KANGA]

I actually bought a danmoto exhaust for 40 bucks on TJS a little while back to keep as a spare. May as well swap over and make it my main one. Thanks johnny!!
Marshy you going to be out on track on the 21st?

[KANGA]

1049
Fuck I'm a cheap ass lol Ugly as sin but thanks to my crashes it already was. I just made it a smidge worse. Fuck it, its a track bike ;) Should be good to go now. Cuts nice and smooth, no sharp or jagged edges.

Unfortunately the dan moto exhaust I tried only had one mounting point and that was the exhaust hanger. There wasn't a mounting tab for the lower mount so it ended up swinging around every where.

[CLIFFY]

If you liked it then you should've put a ring on it