A word of thanks

[Stu23]

Just wanted to let everyone know , the quickshifter I purchased from Nick, was brilliant over the weekend, It was one of the main things that helped me improve over the weekend.. So to everyone that kept pestering me to get one, you were right !!

Cheers Nick

[Marshy]

Thanks mate, much appreciated :D

It's funny, because I was exactly the same about getting a quickshifter - how good could it really be etc. Then I got one, and now I can't ride a bike fast without one!

But you also rode like a man possessed, Stu! So all due credit to your greatly improved riding too. 3 seconds per lap is a MASSIVE improvement!! :peace:

[Stu23]

Cheers Nick,

Now to fix my bike up a bit :) before next time.....

[fitzy]

i agree stu ... once you get one you could never go back :)

[Marshy]

Now to fix my bike up a bit :) before next time.....

Need anything? Clipon bars? Levers?

[Stu23]

had a spare clip on bar, lever and peg....... have just got some steel to re wrap the can and tidy it up. Only thing im working on at the moment is getting a slightly bent oggy knobb out and replacing it..... I just cant understand how a piece of plastic ( well ok Delrin ) can cost as much as it does... Madness I say

[Medic!]

had a spare clip on bar, lever and peg....... have just got some steel to re wrap the can and tidy it up. Only thing im working on at the moment is getting a slightly bent oggy knobb out and replacing it..... I just cant understand how a piece of plastic ( well ok Delrin ) can cost as much as it does... Madness I say

Years back when they first appeared I thought the same. When I saw the set up for my bike I went home and pulled a skateboard apart and used the wheels. Luckily I never found out if they worked and ended up getting proppa ones

[Medic!]

Can't wait to try mine. I've wanted one for as long as I knew they existed. I know it comes down to rider preference and bike but curious if you used the default setting as suggested. I'm starting with that but curious. My street is not a good place to test.

[Marshy]

curious if you used the default setting as suggested.

Roughly 85% of our customers use the default 'medium' setting, including me on all my race bikes. The rest use 'low' sensitivity to eliminate the odd false kill. High is virtually never used. You'll most likely be fine on medium.

[Mouse]

Yeah, i agree, these quickshifters Marshy sells are great! Ive got mine on the medium setting and ive never had a drama. Coupled with race shift pattern, its awesome!!

[Marty]

I found those anitoris to be a nightmare on the road, I put one on my R1 and it was a living hell. Get out on the mountains and it was fantastic.

They have a gaping fixed kill time (it's like 80ms I think). If I shifted from first to second on the back wheel she'd pick up a foot in height from the long kill time.

The reason is it cuts on downshifts, there's no minimum kill time and min RPM so if you come up to the lights and go click click click down (up in my case) to first it would stall the engine. Cruising at low to medium RPM you'd shift with the clutch and get huge back fires out the exhaust because its still cutting the ignition. You do a tiny blip on downshift and the downshift cut will cancel out the blip.

On the track none of these things were a concern though.

On my CBR I've got a H&M PC model (same great sensor as the anitori), I can set it all through the powercommander software. Kill time per gear, min RPM (i run it at around 7k, I'd rather shift clutchless in that range), it's got min time between shifts (I run like 10ms), only cuts on direction of upshift. Absolutely faultless.

[Marshy]

Interestingly, it is R1s that are the only Japanese bike that don't always work great with the Annitori. The newest models are virtually perfect now, but the earlier models were often very problematic. There are a couple of reasons for this (mostly related to the super-long shift rod, but also the early models had a huuuuuge amount of freeplay on the gearbox shaft), and none of the other Jap bikes have the same issues. It also sounds to me like your sensitivity was too high though, because I've never heard of any backfire issues before (and we've sold hundreds).

The only other bike we ever have trouble with is the KTM RC8 (it stalls when shifting into first when stopped, on road bikes), and we now supply a relay with the kit that removes the cut on downshifts. It's a $5 fix, and if anyone else has trouble on downshifts, it's easy to install. But in my extensive experience, only R1 and RC8 owners have any issues at all!!

[Medic!]

Id heard about stalling on earlier units. On mine I barely hear it cut. It sounds like a very slight miss and it hardly affects rpm.

[senator8]

Any bikes with clutch switches, it's also simple to run a bypass using the switch.
So when ever the clutch is pulled the quick shifter is bypassed.

[Marshy]

Id heard about stalling on earlier units. On mine I barely hear it cut. It sounds like a very slight miss and it hardly affects rpm.

The first generation units had a whole bunch of issues that are now removed from the Generation 2 units. Marty, if you had one of the round units, it's not surprising you had problems. The Gen 2 units are actually exactly the same as the HM ones (both the casing and the electronics inside), but without the LCD screen and ability to access the adjustable parameters except sensitivity. The Gen 1 units were different to the HM ones inside and out, and were nowhere near as good. It's funny, because on their own (assuming it wasn't on an early R1), the Gen 1 units were great! But I then rode two R6s back-to-back, one with a Gen1 and one with a Gen2, and the difference was very noticeable!! Much quicker and smoother shifts, and a different and better 'feel' through the gear lever.

[Marshy]

Any bikes with clutch switches, it's also simple to run a bypass using the switch.
So when ever the clutch is pulled the quick shifter is bypassed.

Yep, that's how the KTM kit works :D

[Marty]

Any bikes with clutch switches, it's also simple to run a bypass using the switch.
So when ever the clutch is pulled the quick shifter is bypassed.

I was going to, but its a bit of a bandaid. I just removed it since I didn't have to have one on my road bike. I worked out that if I cut the connector off I can use it in place of my H&M on my cbr600rr, so ill keep it as a spare. The only difference is that the anitori (when running through ignition module) is it will still cut both ways and have the 3 preset sensitivity settings.

Marshy on the R1 the actual shift action was great, it's just the long kill time that's the let down in the smoothness department in some gears. It's still better than the conventional (non strain guage) quickshifters I've ridden on.

When you fine tune the kill times you can make it almost seamless (you won't hear my 600 pop on shifts ever even with no cat). The massive kill time is what makes the big pops and rough(er) shifts. Ideally you want to map the kill times RPM over gear then it would be perfect on short shifts. I've just tuned my per gear times for redline, but its rougher at a 9 grand shift because the WOT kill time needs to be bigger. If Dynojet update their software to allow a map for it ill be stoaked.

The min RPM is the secret, that way it's the same old bike off the cam and downshifting you'd never know you had it either.

What scares me about cutting both ways is that I switch between road and GP shift all the time, if an accident happens and I do a WOT QS downshift instead of up shift I hate to think what would happen.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Mr.Ed]

I have never used either the HM or the Annitori quickshifters so I shouldn't even post here, really... however, this is the interwebs and I feel like I should do it anyway. I had the dynojet quick shifter (along with a PCIII/I.Module) and now have the Bazzaz QS. The Dynojet sucks, I'm not even going to go in to it... not worth it. The Bazzaz rules and it's dead easy to set up (provided you buy the same one I did, with fuel management and etc) and allows you to set up the kill times. And this is mainly why I'm posting this! 'Cause I'm yet to have a problem running too long a killtime. From 1st to 2ng gear I have it at 85ms and I've had zero problems so far. The one time I had a problem with it was when I got greedy and decided to try 5th to 6th at something ridiculous like 35 or 40ms. I would only change gears 50% of the time so needless to say I changed it back.

I also had a go at the S1000RR for a session and despite the quickshifter not doing anything more amazing than any other I've tried it did make gear changes sound the best!!!

[Marshy]

Thanks Ed; I appreciate your input. I agree, and I can't help but wonder why Marty is having issues. Marty, is it a Gen 1 or Gen 2 Annitori?

[Marty]

You are right, the dynojet QS is rubbish, it's the hardware in their case. The dynojet software is decent and lets you set it up how you want. It could do more (gear over RPM) but its pretty damn good.

You need a larger kill time for first to second shift (85ms is high but not insane), but if you have 85ms for 5-6 shift its not ideal. 40-50 is more the range.

I just fine tuned mine by gradually lowering them by 5ms, if it hits a false neutral ill go back and leave it. If you want to make your bike sound like the BMWs just add 20ms to all your kill times.

Nick mine was the V1, I know they fixed some software issues with the V2. I can't see anitori ever adding all the proper features of the fully blown H&M because it then it'll be the same product.

[Mr.Ed]

I live it at 85ms 'cause I only use it once per session... out of the gates! hahaha

[Marshy]

Nick mine was the V1, I know they fixed some software issues with the V2. I can't see anitori ever adding all the proper features of the fully blown H&M because it then it'll be the same product.

It's not just a fix of 'some software issues', it's a completely different unit - hardware and software. As I mentioned, the early one bore little relation to the premiere HM shifter (except for the strain gauge), but the Gen 2 is exactly the same under the hood as the HM, but with access to the fine adjustments removed. No, HM (they make the Annitori, and just stick Annitori on it for branding purposes, although there's still a 'made by HM' tag line on the unit) won't make this version with the LCD screen like the upper spec one for obvious reasons. But don't be confused about them being somehow a different quickshifter to the HM one, because they are not.

It's like Windows Home versus Windows Professional. They are exactly the same software (they install from exactly the same installation files), but certain features are simply disabled in Home. Same same.

[dan]

Are the quick-shifters interchangeable between bikes? I like the idea of getting one for my K3 but I'm loath to buy too much for it I can't take onto the next track bike...

[Marshy]

Are the quick-shifters interchangeable between bikes? I like the idea of getting one for my K3 but I'm loath to buy too much for it I can't take onto the next track bike...

Yes they are. The units themselves are universal. There are different wiring looms, but many are actually the same. All Suzuki and Honda (all models) have the same looms, and Yamaha and Kwaka are the same. The Euro bikes all have their own specific looms (and some vary by year/model too).

So if you buy another Suzuki or a Honda next, you're sweet. If you buy a different brand, you will need a different loom (or you could follow BoB's excellent 'how to' for setting up the quickshifter without any loom at all here http://tarmactalk.com/forum/showthread.php?64-600rr-07-quickshifter-install-without-using-harness). Oh, and you'll probably need a different length shift rod, but that's cheap too.

[dan]

Great news! Better save my pocket money...

[Spilly209]

So out if curiosity how do the Annitori shifters compare to the OEM quickshifter on my 1199? This is my first bike with a QS and even after the first ride home I was hooked!

The Duc QS works great but it only selects a gear if the throttle is open at least a little bit. It does seem to cut the ignition for a little longer than I'd like on the track but I'm nitpicking. It's only selected a false neutral once in 5,000kms of mostly track riding so really quite impressed with it.

So Marshy, the Annitori QS you fitted to my R6 today will essentially be the same to operate as the one on my Pani? Also is the box race pattern shift? Never tried that before, hope I don't get confused 

[Phat3R]

Great news! Better save my pocket money...

I didn't think they went all the way down to a K1/K3 GSX-R600?

[Marshy]

So out if curiosity how do the Annitori shifters compare to the OEM quickshifter on my 1199? This is my first bike with a QS and even after the first ride home I was hooked!

So Marshy, the Annitori QS you fitted to my R6 today will essentially be the same to operate as the one on my Pani? Also is the box race pattern shift? Never tried that before, hope I don't get confused 

Good question!! I'm not sure about the workings of the OEM Pani ones. Although I'm keen to try one, so will have to ride it next time out :love: :cheer:

You need to change to race pattern!! It's soooooooo much better (and this is from someone that resisted for 10 years). A quickshifter is much more effective in race shift, as you just bang down on the lever at full tilt, rather than trying to get your foot under it and lift it. I can put the R6 in road pattern, but I strongly suggest you just get used to the new bike with the new shift pattern all at once. And change the pani over too, otherwise it's very confusing!!

[Marshy]

I didn't think they went all the way down to a K1/K3 GSX-R600?

Easy!! I actually reckon the Annitori fitment guides are conservative, and that their coil looms generally fit older models (although probably only some, not all). But much better than that, just wire it into the ignition circuit, as per this thread: http://tarmactalk.com/forum/showthread.php?332-New-How-To-Annitori-quickshifter-without-loom

[Spilly209]

Good question!! I'm not sure about the workings of the OEM Pani ones. Although I'm keen to try one, so will have to ride it next time out :love: :cheer:

You need to change to race pattern!! It's soooooooo much better (and this is from someone that resisted for 10 years). A quickshifter is much more effective in race shift, as you just bang down on the lever at full tilt, rather than trying to get your foot under it and lift it. I can put the R6 in road pattern, but I strongly suggest you just get used to the new bike with the new shift pattern all at once. And change the pani over too, otherwise it's very confusing!!

Yea I'm down with changing to race pattern mate, been meaning to change the Pani for a while 👍

[chubb]

Yeah race pattern works a lot easier once you get your head around it

However it may not make you faster though as there are some quick guys running road shift

[Baddie]

Ok...I thought I've give my 2 cents worth as I'm here sitting out the back enjoying the smell of the rain and had both Dynojet and annitori ( V1.0) units.
Annitori unit... loved it straight out of the box , and if my new girl didn't already have pcv,ign,secondary module and quickshifter with 4hrs with brad from bikebiz Granville, Annitori it would be the set up of my choice without a doubt.
But after actually seeing someone who knows what they are doing,I see why from the high budget teams use units that let you adjust both Fuel and Ignition timing, but remember the annitori gives you a QS at a quarter of the price compared to a full Dynojet set-up.
For those who don't have one it would be my second choice of up grades only running second to aftermarket/upgraded suspension.

[Mr.Ed]

I'm of the opposite opinion... I had the Dynojet setup on the R6 mapped to power of max and would never ever ever go back to it now that I've tried the Bazzaz. I haven't tried the Annitori but from what I've heard it might just be that much better again.

[chubb]

I'm of the opposite opinion... I had the Dynojet setup on the R6 mapped to power of max and would never ever ever go back to it now that I've tried the Bazzaz. I haven't tried the Annitori but from what I've heard it might just be that much better again.

Same here. I'd pick the bazzaz qs over the dynojet.

Never tried the Annitori one yet

[Marshy]

I've never used a PC one, but I find the Annitori better than the Bazzaz that was on the blade. The bazzaz was fine 99% of the time, but occasionally I'd miss a shift; something that's never happened with an Annitori.

[Mazabuzz]

Ive had the bazzaz on my ZX6, but took it off as the whole unit was fucked. Wetty suggested i get one of Marshys QS and after runing it during the week I can say hands down the bazzaz is second to the one i got off Marshy. Cheers mate.